When TAG Heuer announced the Heuer Autavia Cup back in the summer of 2016, it was praised as an intriguing new way for hardcore Heuer enthusiasts to have a voice in what vintage model the 2017 Autavia reissue would take its design from. Needless to say, it went off without a hitch and the watch that ended up being released at Baselworld last year became a favorite for many. It even was nominated for the GPHG award for the best chronograph. So, in the aftermath of TAG Heuer’s success in crowdsourcing its selection, it was more a question of when another brand would try something similar rather than if they would.

Back in October, we finally got our answer after receiving word that Bulova was partnering with Analog/Shift in a voting contest that would determine the next addition to the brand’s Archive Series (we’ve already seen the patriotic Chronograph C from last year and the Lunar Pilot Chronograph from 2016). The contestants? The Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver, the 1970 Surf-Board Chronograph A, and a Bull-Head Chronograph from 1970. After all the votes were counted from Bulova fans across the world, the Devil Diver was announced as the winner back in December. The coolest part of all this? Bulova decided to give the watch a mechanical movement.

Out of the 666 orange dial versions, 30 will be engraved with the Analog/Shift logo on the case back and will come with a special Analog/Shift strap.

Originally released in 1972, the Devil Diver grew in popularity and earned its nickname thanks to the 666 feet water resistance rating printed on the dial. The new version remains mostly accurate to its ‘70’s forebear in its design including a deliciously-vintage crosshair. Inside the watch, we have the automatic SW-220-1 AIG5 caliber, which uses a reliable Sellita movement as its base. There will be two different versions of this watch, the one pictured above is limited to 666 pieces and comes with a bright orange dial that is immediately recognizable. The second (pictured below) will be a general release model that features the Devil Diver’s iconic red and blue bezel.

If you missed the Grammys last night, don’t worry. All you need to know is that Bruno Mars took home quite a few awards. Six, in fact. In light of his domination, you may have missed the one thing watch enthusiasts keep an eye out for when they watch the annual “Best in Music” showcase: What watches are the artists and celebrities wearing?

The big news on that end is that Bulova, in its second year sponsoring the show, handed out a specially designed watch to each winner. Which begs the question — did Bruno Mars receive six watches for each Grammy he received?

The Limited Edition 60th Anniversary Grammy wristwatch, from the Precisionist collection, features a dial constructed from Grammium, which, if you didn’t know, is a custom alloy developed specifically for the iconic gramophone statue that is given to all Grammy award winners.

Since the watch is from the Precisionist collection, it’s powered by the brand’s three-prong quartz crystal movement. Unlike other quartz timepieces, this watch beats at 262 kHz, which translates to 16 ticks per second producing a buttery-smooth seconds hand. It’s accurate to within five seconds per month, which is far better than most quartz models, and has become the tentpole collection for the brand among serious watch enthusiasts since it was first released in 2010. The watch has an anti-reflective sapphire glass, a screw-back case with the Grammy logo, and a black rubber and crocodile-embossed gray leather strap. There’s a nice nod to this year’s show at the center of the dial: the sound wave is shaped like the New York City skyline to commemorate the return of the ceremony to New York for the first time since 2003.

Baselworld 2018 may have been significantly smaller than in previous years, but the show certainly made up for it with an exceptional range of new watches, quite a lot of them with much more budget-friendly prices than in previous years (which still cannot be said for the bratwurst stand outside the fair).

WatchTime’s editorial team spent 315 hours on the ground in Basel, visited 138 brands (50 of which have already been covered here), and is now working on the Baselworld special for one of the upcoming issues of WatchTime magazine. Until then, we’re certain you will appreciate a slightly more personal selection of some of this year’s highlights.

Participating editors: Logan R. Baker (LRB), Mark Bernardo (MB) and Roger Ruegger (RR).

What was this year’s most unexpected release for you?

RR: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Automatic. Not so much because of the watch itself (after all, Bulgari has already broken several thinness records in the last four years and the design is well established), but because of the timing: In March 2017, Bulgari launched the thinnest automatic wristwatch, in December 2017 the title went to Piaget, and now team Bulgari scored again. For me, that’s as close to watching a horological soccer game as possible. Speaking of which: Hublot’s smartwatch for World Cup Referees also came as a surprise, as well as the new “Autobahn” from Nomos.

MB: To be honest, I was a bit surprised that Tudor, after years of forging its own identity separate from its parent, Rolex, would choose this year to embrace the brands’ shared heritage and launch the Black Bay GMT, with a design heavily influenced by the classic Rolex GMT-Master. Of course, Tudor being Tudor, there was much more to the watch than what we saw at first glance: the bicolor bezel was not the bright “Pepsi” red-and-blue of Rolex’s version but the burgundy and indigo colors that have become closely associated with previous versions of the Tudor Black Bay. Plus, you’ll note the now-familiar Black Bay snowflake hands and the presence of a Tudor in-house movement, Caliber MT5652. The watch works on several levels: if you’re looking for a lower-priced alternative to the GMT-Master, it fills the bill; if you want a new complication with subtle but distinctive Tudor DNA, it fills that bill also. Runner-up: Raymond Weil’s skeletonized version of its Freelancer RW1212, only one year after the release of the original RW1212, the independent Geneva brand’s first exclusive, proprietary movement. 

The Tudor Black Bay GMT

LRB: The Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon. Usually, skeletonized watches aren’t my cup of tea. Especially ones with a polychromatic look like the latest release from Angelus. Combine that with the fact that a tourbillon inside a dive watch is basically the definition of over-engineering and you wouldn’t have expected the first-ever diver from Angelus to receive the reception it did. However, the surprise here is three-fold. Not only is it impressive that Angelus achieved a depth rating of 300 m for its first dive attempt but to tack on a tourbillon makes a watch of this caliber even more unexpected. (For reference, the MB&F Aquapod with a tourbillon only has a 50 m depth rating.) While the brand has trended towards having a more high-tech/avant-garde presence in recent years, it’s still a surprise given the brand’s highly-collectible and prized vintage models that are mostly comprised of chronographs and field watches. And, to top it off, the price is right too. At right around $30,000, it’s tough to find a comparison for this introduction in today’s market.

The Angelus U50 Diver Tourbillon

In your opinion, what was the best entry-level watch under $2,000?

RR: That’s a tough one. The usual suspects, brands like Oris, Longines, Tissot, Mido or Certina, all had a lot of attractive watches on display this year; but personally, I immediately fell in love with Bulova’s Snorkel re-issue, a cushion-case dive watch from the ’70s with a 666-foot rating on the dial and a list price of $795 (a watch I owned and should never have sold). The Presage SJE073 from Seiko (with the new 6L35 caliber) and the new Seastar from Tissot are also very promising. Doxa’s Divingstar “Poseidon Edition” is definitely a candidate too, but might technically not qualify after the pre-order phase, same with the Longines Legend Diver Black PVD that could end up slightly above the price required to be listed in this category.

MB: As always at Baselworld, there were a lot of anniversaries being commemorated — Omega Seamaster’s 70th, TAG Heuer Carrera’s 55th, Chronoswiss’s 35th— but a major one that has been largely under the radar is Mido’s 100th anniversary, which the brand is celebrating with a number of special releases. The most noteworthy of these is the Mido Baroncelli Trilogy, three limited editions that are imagined to represent the brand’s past (1918), present (2018), and future (2118). The Baroncelli 1918 is a small-seconds watch with a rose-gold PVD case, a brown leather strap, and an ivory enamel dial that evokes early Mido watches. The 2018 model is in a polished stainless steel case with a steel bracelet. The “futuristic” 2118 has a black PVD-treated steel case, a light-catching sunray dial in anthracite gray, a Bordeaux red seconds hand, and a Cordura fabric strap. They’re all limited editions, all powered by automatic ETA movements, and all priced well under $2,000 (from $1,200 to $1,260).

LRB: Like Roger and Mark pointed out, this is where the more accessible Swatch Group brands excelled. Longines, Tissot, and Mido all put out tempting value propositions but it was hard for me to stay away from the Hamilton booth during this year’s show. The model that kept drawing me back? The new Khaki Field Mechanical 38 mm. It’s a great vintage-inspired re-edition that has a good chance of becoming my standard answer to when my less horologically-inclined friends ask for a good affordable watch recommendation. And, at only $475, I might end up picking one (or two) myself.

The Hamilton Khaki Field Mechanical 38 mm

What was the most exciting new release for you?

RR: The Omega Seamaster 1948 Limited Edition (small seconds) certainly qualifies, Carl F. Bucherer did a fantastic job with the Manero Tourbillon Double Peripheral, Hublot’s collaboration with Richard Orlinski added a new dimension to the Big Bang collection and, of course, Rolex did pretty much everything right with bringing the “Pepsi” GMT Master II back in stainless steel. I was also positively surprised by the Bulgari Octo Automatic in steel and rose gold.

MB: I had seen pictures and video of Hublot’s Big Bang Sapphire Tourbillon long before I actually sat down for my Hublot appointment and held it in my hands, so this watch had pretty much made the list before I had ever seen it in the person (not “in the metal” as there is very little metal on display here). While still somewhat rare, sapphire-cased watches have been around for a few years now, with Hublot being the first to release one in a large-scale production series, but leave it to the audacious “Art of Fusion” brand to take it to another level, with not only transparency in the 45-mm case (cut from a single block of durable sapphire) and rubber strap but also in the major elements of the skeletonized tourbillon movement, including a strip of sapphire serving as the tourbillon bridge and clear “high-tech polycarbonate” used for bridges and plates. The overall effect is quite stunning, and the movement itself is technically sound, boasting a 115-hour power reserve. Right on this model’s heels was the Chopard All-in-One, which manages to cram 14 functions onto two dials and make both of them look stunningly elegant.

LRB: I was thoroughly impressed with what Zenith had to offer this year. While the continuation of the Defy Collection is certainly something to pay attention to, there was a certain trend to the new models that really excited me. This year, none of the watches in Zenith’s lineup come in stainless steel. All the models branch out into something different, something exciting. There’s a lustful white ceramic found in the Swizz Beatz collaboration, bronze in the new pilots’ models, and titanium timepieces abound. I would also say it was great to see Breitling continue to flesh out its new look, and the fact that it isn’t totally abandoning the extra-large aesthetic of the past decade plus a positive for its longtime supporters. Jaquet Droz deserves a special shoutout as well for introducing a new writing automaton during the show.

What timepiece released during the fair are you most likely to purchase this year?

RR: I am trying very hard to convince myself not to go after the new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s and the Seiko 6159 re-issue. I am already 99% sure that I will get the Bulova Snorkel as soon as it’s available. 

The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Day Date 70s

MB: Oris is a brand that I usually walk away from my Baselworld appointment and think, “Man, I should really open the wallet and get me one of those” about at least one of its new models, and this year was no exception, as I took an immediate liking to the new Aquis Chronograph — actually the first chrono in the Aquis collection, Oris says, outfitted with a reliable Sellita automatic movement — and its very attractive price tag under $4,000. If I happen to hit the lottery this year (or one of my books earns much more royalties than I expect), I would move heaven and earth to acquire one of Hublot’s Berlutti editions with the sumptuous leather dials, probably the burgundy one. These are definitely “novelties” in the traditional sense of the word and, like many Hublots, probably a love-‘em-or-hate-‘em proposition, but count me firmly in the “love” category.

LRB: I’ve long flirted with the idea of picking up a vintage Citizen bullhead chronograph from the 1970s, so there’s a strong chance I’ll end up with one of the new models. Other than that, I truly enjoyed the back-to-basics Carrera Caliber 16 Chronograph from TAG Heuer. It’s just an extremely attractive timepiece that has been stuck in the back of my mind since leaving Basel. Finally, the Mühle Glashütte ProMare Go is a really exciting introduction from one of my favorite German brands. It’s water resistant to 300 m, has a bi-directional rotating bezel, and a positively gorgeous combination of blues on the dial and bezel that made it hard to walk away from with my wallet intact. The Tutima Glashütte M2 Coastline also left me with a similar feeling. 

If you had unlimited funds, what watch would you purchase?

RR: The Breguet Classique Tourbillon Extra-Plat Automatique with a Grand Feu enamel dial and Blancpain’s Villeret Tourbillon Volant Heure Sautante Minute Rétrograde both qualify. Laurent Ferrier’s Minute Repeater should also be on the list, but the brand wasn’t officially exhibiting in Basel which makes room for Patek’s Ref. 5740/1G.

MB: Even the most basic three-hand version of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is a grail watch for many of us, and Patek has been adding more complicated versions over the years, all of which have stayed true to the original now-iconic design. This year, the brand pulled out the big guns, adding a perpetual calendar to the sport-luxury collection, and it’s a beauty. It’s also, somewhat surprisingly, the thinnest quantième perpetuel in Patek’s entire portfolio. Despite the very busy dial, the watch (Ref. 5740/1G) is still unmistakably a Nautilus, albeit one at the absolute pinnacle (price and complication) of the series. Slightly more attainable, and my favorite of the new Rolex releases despite its being somewhat overshadowed by the Oystersteel “Pepsi” version, is the new GMT-Master II in Everose Gold with the black-and-brown “root beer” bezel. I’ve always preferred root beer to Pepsi, so I guess that follows.

LRB: Two pieces immediately come to mind for me. The H. Moser Swiss Alp Watch Minute Repeater Tourbillon and the Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor in titanium. First off, this one-of-a-kind Moser is unlike any watch I’ve seen before. The dial was described to me as featuring “fumé marquetry,” which combines two stunning techniques into one blue dial. Being able to look at the dial through a loupe and see how it gradually grows darker moving outwards from the center and seeing each marking up close was like experiencing a horological dream sequence (check out the macro shots in the slideshow below). I was so captivated by the dial that I almost forgot it boasts both a minute repeater and a tourbillon. Given it’s a unique piece, I was even told it had been sold the day before, I’m sure that will be both the first, and the last, time I’ll have a chance to see it in the metal. On the other hand, the latest update to Romain Gauthier‘s Insight Micro-Rotor scales down the weight of the watch making it imminently wearable. The all-black look is definitely distinct and after wearing it for a few minutes I can say that it would make an ideal daily wearer, which is really saying something considering how mechanically impressive (and expensive) it is.

What was your best interview or presentation experience?

RR: Blancpain certainly did a very smart thing by letting a collector like Jeff Kingston present the novelties. But the presentations with Bulgari, Bell & Ross, and Sinn are also annual highlights I wouldn’t want to miss.

Jeff Kingston

MB:  Many brands and presenters did a great job, as per usual, of introducing us media folks to their novelties, but this year’s standout was my meeting with Casio/G-Shock, in which I actually had the opportunity to hear from, and ask questions of, the actual R&D team from the brand’s Tokyo HQ that were the brain trust behind such standout watches as the MR-G, the G-Shock Full Metal, and the new G-Shock Gravity Master. Thanks is also due to Glashütte Original, which offered me the opportunity to interview, over German beers, its charismatic CEO, Thomas Meier, and Hublot (those guys again), which arranged a sit-down with cigar icon Carlito Fuente. 

The new Casio MRG-G2000HA

LRB: I had the opportunity to interview Jean-Claude Biver and George Bamford in back-to-back sessions during the fair which was a fascinating experience. Equally animated in conversation, it was a definite treat to speak with a man who has helped make the watch industry what it is today in Biver and with someone who finally received his first real sign of acceptance into the sphere of horological titans with Bamford. Hearing stories from Biver’s past compared with the giddiness Bamford showed at having the opportunity to work with TAG Heuer and Zenith (he compared himself to a child in a candy store more than once in our 30-minute chat) was a joy. It also helped me understand the personalization ethos that Bamford has sought to popularize over the past decade plus. Keep an eye out for both interviews to appear on our site and in print in the coming weeks. Presentation wise, I truly enjoyed meeting with Bulgari, Chopard, Meistersinger, Oris, Tutima Glashütte, and Sinn.

The new TAG Heuer Monaco Bamford LE

Was there anything you missed compared to previous years?

RR: Swatch Group’s entry-level brand Certina still hasn’t fully embraced its rich history in my opinion, but the DS PH200M is a first step in the right direction. Non-watch related: After 18 years of attending the show, I still find it extremely difficult to get something affordable/healthy to eat during the show… and a reliable Wifi connection outside the press center.

The Certina DS PH200M

MB:  As a veteran Baselworld visitor (12 years), there are always changes from year to year that make me wistful for previous fairs. The absence of Breitling’s iconic fish tank at its booth, emblematic of the many changes that brand has been making with Georges Kern at the helm, was noticeable — as were, of course, the absence of several of the larger booths of brands that either fled Baselworld for SIHH or simply didn’t participate this year. It was odd, for example, to not see Hermès’s iconic booth greeting me at the top of the Hall 1 escalator, or the entrance to the Movado Group’s complex looming over my multiple entrances to the South Hall press center. On a personal note, I missed the presence of Bollinger, the Champagne of James Bond, at my one end-of-day unwinding session in the lounge at the Omega booth. A First World problem, to be sure, but perhaps a small sign of Baselworld 2018 budget trimming.

LRB: While I’m still a Baselworld neophyte compared to my colleagues, a few general complaints I heard were focused on the lack of internet connectivity throughout the main halls, the closure of Hall 1.2, and the overall weather throughout the week. On the last point, I heard multiple times that this was the most frigid Basel that many had experienced in over 30 years.

You can view all our Baselworld 2018 coverage here. 

Walk into any horological meetup with a quartz watch on and you’re likely to get the door slammed in your face. I kid, I kid — but only partly. Ever since the mechanical watch industry made its recovery in the face of a specific doom brought on by Japanese watchmakers, many so-called watch enthusiasts (snobs might be the more appropriate nom de guerre) have outright refused to let a battery-operated watch end up on their wrists. Is that fair? Depends — of course anybody that calls themselves a timepiece enthusiast most likely fell in love with mechanical watches, but that doesn’t necessarily mean quartz watches should be left out in the cold. Over the past decade-plus, there have been some fascinating developments in the quartz sphere that have led to a new field of watches called HAQ (High Accuracy Quartz) that make precision the primary objective. An easy guideline to remember is that any quartz watch that boasts a plus or minus rate of ten seconds per year can be deemed HAQ. While this field is still dominated in full by our friends out of Japan, a few Swiss brands have tossed their hat into the ring and are trying to figure out the next stage in precision timekeeping. For the sake of this article, we’ll be defining HAQ as one that has an inherent regulator rather than something that relies on an outside force liken an atomic clock or GPS to maintain accuracy.

Longines VHP

Longines’ recent foray into HAQ ended up with the release of the Conquest V.H.P. (Very High Precision) at Baselworld 2017. Rather than jumping into the smartwatch realm like so many other Swiss brands, Longines has doubled down and made one of the most accurate quartz watches ever. As far as we can tell, this is the first Swiss watch to boast ± five seconds per year, which ends up being less than half a second every month. One of the coolest features of this watch is the gear position detection system that allows the watch hands to automatically resync if they’re accidentally displaced by a shock or a magnetic field. It also boasts a perpetual calendar in the date, meaning the timepiece knows the length of each month and when a leap year occurs, so you won’t ever have to mess with the date. The crown also has this funky trick where you can set the watch either by slowly ticking off minute-by-minute or, with a quick turn, the hour hand will jump by the hour so the minute hand stays accurate. At Baselworld 2018, the brand introduced several new VHP models including a new selection of chronographs. Prices start at $1,000.

Bulova Precisionist

Bulova introduced the Accutron II collection within the Precisionist line in 2014.

Most watch enthusiasts know that Bulova introduced the world’s first wristwatch that utilized an electronic tuning fork to regulate the time and an electronic gear train to move the hands with the original Accutron. That was way back in 1960; in 2010, after being purchased by Citizen two years before, the brand set out to reclaim its heritage of offering supremely accurate watches with the Precisionist line. The beauty of the Precisionist is something that nothing else on this list can offer — a smooth seconds hand. Because the watch beats at 262 kHz, which translates to 16 ticks per second, it allows for the buttery-smooth seconds hand that mechanical watch lovers have long hoarded over quartz enthusiasts. These technically don’t meet our guideline of 10 seconds per year, rather they offer a rate of 5 seconds per month, but they’re worth mentioning due to the sheer amount of models available and the accessible price point. In 2014, Bulova tapped into its history to introduce the Accutron II collection within the Precisionist line. Prices start at $350.

Grand Seiko 9F

Grand Seiko SBGV207 featuring the 9F caliber

You can blame Seiko for introducing the first quartz watch into production way back in 1969. Back then, quartz was less of a novelty and more of a revolution, and like any revolutionary tech, quartz watches cost quite a bit of money. While Seiko still sells plenty of quartz nowadays, its latest proprietary invention comes via its higher-end sibling, Grand Seiko with the 9F caliber. This specific caliber uses a thermocompensating movement to measure the temperature hundreds of times per day and then uses the information to adjust the frequency of the quartz’s vibrations to make up for any irregularities. The 9F caliber claims to be accurate plus or minus 10 seconds per year (Grand Seiko’s Spring Drive 9R caliber is also extremely accurate but claims to record plus or minus 15 seconds per month). Prices start at $2,200.

Breitling Superquartz

Breitling Cockpit B50 Night Mission

Breitling’s line of Superquartz watches represents the high-end of this segment of the watch market. For a long time, Breitling was sourcing its high-end, thermocompensated, quartz models from ETA. Starting with the Cockpit B50 released in 2014, however, Breitling began producing its own hyper-accurate quartz models thanks to the patented Superquartz technology. Thermocompensated, COSC-certified, and billed as accurate within 10 seconds per year, the analog-digital Cockpit B50 started a new wave for the brand that was continued with the release of the Exospace B55 and the Colt Skyracer. At release, the Cockpit B50 cost $7,200 but the Colt Skyracer, released in 2017, was priced at approximately $2,000. Be warned: If you’re a fan of Breitling’s HAQ models, now might be the time to pick one up, because as we recently reported, new CEO Georges Kern is going to slowly eliminate quartz-powered pieces from the brand’s catalog with few outliers. 

Omega Spacemaster Z-33

Everyone knows the Omega Speedmaster and Seamaster, but how familiar are you with the Spacemaster? First released in 2012, the Omega Spacemaster Z-33 was inspired by the iconic “Pilot Line” case shape originally seen in 1969. It was designed for professional use by pilots which included a flight logbook that could record up to 10 flights, a UTC plus two time zones, either in 12-hours or 24-hours, and alarm, a chronograph, and a countdown timer. This is all thanks to the multi-function, thermocompensated Caliber 5666 that boasts a rate of plus or minus 10 seconds per year. The case is titanium and is priced at $5,900 on either a rubber strap or leather strap or $6,600 on a titanium bracelet.

The Citizen Chronomaster

The Citizen Chronomaster AQ1030-57H

Previously only available in Japan, Citizen recently introduced its famous “The Citizen Chronomaster” model to a more global audience. Available in the Japanese brand’s Time Square boutique in New York City, the AQ1010-54A, AQ1030-57H, and AQ1040-53A all use the Caliber A010, which broke the record for most accurate quartz watch at ± 5 seconds per year when it was first introduced in 2011. All three models include perpetual calendar functionality as well. While the watches use thermocompensation to remain accurate, they’re powered by Citizen’s proprietary, solar-powered Eco-Drive technology. Prices start at $2,275 at time of publishing. 

Bulova is remarkable in many ways. Horologically, it has been the flagbearer of American-born watchmaking for over a century (143 years, to be exact). Culturally, the brand’s silhouette reaches even further, having been a touchstone for how corporate America presents itself in countless ways. It’s this history that the latest timepiece-centric book from publisher Assouline, Bulova: A History of Firsts, is focused on.

The 176-page volume doesn’t follow the traditional guideline of brand-centric biblio-pursuits; instead, it reads more like a classic literary journal, focused on the events themselves rather than the decade they occurred in.  It tells the story of Bohemian-immigrant Joseph Bulova as an “iconoclastic industrialist” who built up his eponymous company from scratch into a watchmaking powerhouse that has had a dominating presence on the wrist, and in the minds, of Americans throughout the 20th and 21st century.

This was achieved in a myriad of ways which, in a sense, provides the new book with its title. In 1926, Bulova produced the world’s first radio advertisement. This marketing prowess continued in 1941 when the world’s first television ad ran before a Brooklyn Dodgers and Philadelphia Phillies game featuring Bulova timepieces.

Other stories from Bulova’s past and historical details found in the book include a look at the brand’s role in the space race, its partnership with Charles Lindbergh, the introduction of the legendary Accutron, and Bulova’s influence in the feminist movement by introducing the world’s first full line of ladies’ watches.

Bulova: A History of Firsts is edited by luxury specialist Aaron Sigmond and features the writing and horological expertise of leading watch industry specialists Jack Forster, Jason Heaton, and Roberta Naas; style pundits Kate Betts, David Coggins, and Matt Hranek; and musician Nile Rodgers. The coffee table book was released on April 2 and is priced at $175. You can pre-order your copy here.

Click here to read more about Bulova’s remarkable history.

Bulova introduced a number of new timepieces this year with the obvious hero piece being the resurrected Devil Diver. However, among the many Precisionist, Rubaiyat, and CURV updates being delivered in 2018, there was one automatic that caught my eye during Baselworld and has since flown firmly under-the-radar.

The Wilton 60-Hour Automatic Classic, set within the Classics Collection, is an affordable and attractive automatic entry into the brand’s core lineup. A time-only model with an open heart between 6 and 8 o’clock, the watch features a blend of contemporary design choices that range from the mix of Roman numerals and bar indexes to the stamped guilloché motif in the center of the dial. At 12 o’clock, the Bulova tuning fork logo makes an appearance to hammer home the brand’s longtime pursuit of accuracy and general accessibility. Inside the watch, the 21-jewel Japanese movement boasts a 60-hour power reserve and is exclusive to the brand. The price ranges from $550-$695.  

In this feature from our archives, we explore important watch milestones from Bulova over its 140-plus-year history.

Founded in New York City in 1875 by Bohemian immigrant Joseph Bulova, the Bulova Watch Company has been responsible for numerous watch world milestones in its century-plus of existence and continues to innovate well into the 21st Century. Here we look at 10 important timepieces from Bulova’s history and discover what they meant for the brand and for the watch industry as a whole.

Bulova had already become known for several watch-industry firsts — such as standardization of watch parts, launching the first full line of ladies’ watches, and airing the first radio commercial — by 1927, the year in which legendary aviator Charles Lindbergh became the first man to fly nonstop across the Atlantic Ocean. This accomplishment earned Lindbergh the Bulova Watch Prize of $1,000 and the opportunity to be the face of the company’s Lone Eagle wristwatch, which commemorated the record-setting flight. The original Lindbergh Lone Eagle, which was priced at $37.50, was described by Bulova as a “handsomely engraved 14-k white gold filled case with non-breakable crystal in back to protect the movement from dust. Has 15-jewel reliable Bulova movement.” With Lindbergh touting the watch in advertisements as “my pleasure to wear, keeps accurate time and is a beauty,” the Lone Eagle became Bulova’s best-selling watch of the era.

In the early 1940s, with World War II threatening and American involvement in the conflict imminent, Bulova entered into a contract with the United States government to produce instruments that would aid the American war effort. Many of these had little to do with timekeeping, including altimeters, variometers, telescopes for range-finding on artillery, and time fuses for explosives. However, Bulova also provided the wristwatches that were issued as official gear for American troops. The so-called Bulova “Hack” Watch was equipped with a special lock-down apparatus that allowed for precise synchronization, an asset in the planning of wartime missions. As one of the few American watch companies, Bulova took its patriotic duty quite seriously: many of the company’s male employees joined the armed forces, leaving the Bulova factories of that time manned largely by women. The company also devoted 25 percent of its advertising to the promotion of war bonds and stamps, a service for which it was awarded a distinguished service certificate by the Secretary of the Treasury Henry Morgenthau, Jr.

The Bulova 23 series — named for its 23-jewel, self-winding movement — debuted in the 1950s and brought wide popularity to a Bulova invention first used in a watch in 1953: the mechanical “Wrist-Alarm,” a breakthrough in the industry that would later be adopted by other brands. Bulova 23 watches were known for their “unbreakable” mainspring and shock-resistant, waterproof cases, which at the time were made entirely in the United States. This series was one of the first of many successful launches under the leadership of Omar Bradley, the decorated World War II general who had recently joined the Bulova company as Chairman of the Board of its Research and Development Laboratories.

The 1960s saw Bulova’s most famous and influential contribution to the science of watchmaking — the Bulova Accutron, the world’s first fully electronic watch. Rolled out under worldwide scrutiny at the World’s Watchmaking Fair in Basel, Switzerland (now called Baselworld) in 1960, the watch incorporated a revolutionary new technology that utilized a 360-Herz tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator, to drive the timekeeping functions rather than a traditional balance wheel. The brainchild of Bulova engineer (and Basel native) Max Hetzel, this technology ensured an oscillation rate of 360 times per second — nearly 150 times faster than that of a mechanical, balance-wheel-driven timepiece — and guaranteed an accuracy to just one minute per month. The Accutron was distinguished by its telltale humming instead of ticking, a sound generated by the vibrating tuning fork. The first Accutron model, called Spaceview 214 and featuring its now-famous open dial showing off the high-tech movement, also deviated from traditional wristwatch design with its lack of setting stem and crown on the side of the watch; these elements were instead placed on the back of the case. The Accutron has been the cornerstone of Bulova’s portfolio ever since. In 2010, its 50th anniversary year, Bulova released a special, limited-edition replica of the Spaceview with a modern movement.

Bulova also lent its expertise to the U.S. government during the late-1960s Space Race with the Soviet Union. During its decades-long partnership with the National Aeronautics and Space Administration (NASA), Bulova helped outfit numerous satellite missions with Accutron timekeeping technology, starting with the Vanguard 1 in 1958. All timekeeping instruments, including instrument-panel clocks, aboard NASA’s manned spacecraft missions leading up to and including the legendary first Moon Walk on July 21, 1969, were equipped with Bulova Accutron tuning fork technology. (At the time, even NASA scientists could not know how a mechanical timekeeper would function in low-gravity conditions.) Of course, watch history buffs are well aware that it was the Omega Speedmaster Professional (now appropriately nicknamed the Moonwatch) that won the right to be official NASA watch and hence the first watch worn on the moon during the historic Apollo 11 mission in 1969. Fewer may realize that astronaut Buzz Aldrin also placed a Bulova Accutron timer in the Sea of Tranquility to help transmit critical data transmissions. In commemoration of its role in the Space Race, Bulova subsequently released a limited-edition Accutron “Astronaut” watch, with Buzz Aldrin’s signature on the caseback.

A Bulova Accutron chronograph wristwatch finally made it to the lunar surface in 1971, on the wrist of Apollo 15 mission commander David R. Scott. Scott wore the watch, which had been specially engineered to withstand lunar conditions, as a backup after the crystal on his NASA-issued Omega, according to records, had popped off. Scott’s Bulova watch — the only privately owned watch ever to visit the moon — recently sold at auction for $1.62 million. To commemorate the record-setting sale, Bulova released its Special Edition Moon Watch Chronograph — aesthetically a very faithful re-creation of the original (which was never made available commercially), but outfitted with a modern UHF (Ultra-High-Frequency) quartz movement, which Bulova says gives the watch an extremely high degree of timekeeping accuracy, losing just seconds per year. It also powers a continuous sweep seconds hand for the chronograph function, a feature rare in quartz chronograph watches. The classical tricompax dial features what the brand calls “super-luminous” treatment on the hands and hour markers and is surrounded by a tachymeter scale for calculating speeds. One other consolation to modern tastes and convenience is the small date window at 4:30. This watch is currently available at retail for $550.

Nicknamed the “Stars and Stripes” by collectors for its combination of red, white, and blue elements, and introduced to the market in 1970, the Bulova Chronograph “C” is among the most collectible of Bulova watches, as it was discontinued just about a year after its debut. Design-wise, the watch stands out for several reasons — its 43-mm steel case, which was very large for the era; its colorful dial and oddly shaped hands; its bezel, which is notched but does not rotate; its lack of traditional lugs; and its heavy mesh bracelet that attached directly to the underside of the case. The movement, which is front-loaded, is a mechanical Valjoux 7736, which powers the timekeeping and stopwatch functions. Despite its brief time in the spotlight, the Chronograph “C” is appealing to many for its “patriotic” theme and represents a touchstone to the United States bicentennial year of 1976, even though the watch was long off the market by then.

As electronic watches and quartz watches began growing in popularity throughout the late 1970s and 1980s, Bulova continued to forge ahead with innovations such as the Accutron Quartz, the first quartz-crystal watch sold in the U.S.A., and boasting a case made of 18k gold. Shortly, Bulova catered to the era’s growing demand for digital timekeepers by adding a line of Accuquartz watches with digital LCD time displays, and eventually the all-digital Computron LED, with its very unconventional and (at the time) somewhat futuristic trapezoidal case with LED display on the side. This style is often called a “drivers’ watch” because its layout enables a driver to check the time without moving his wrist from the steering wheel; in the case of the Computron, the angled time display — the wearer would press the command button once for the time, and again for the date —  also addressed the problem of glare from direct sunlight impairing the visibility on an LED watch.

In 2008, Japan’s Citizen Watch Company acquired the Bulova brand. One of the most significant new product releases under the new management regime was the Bulova Precisionist, billed as “the world’s most accurate quartz watch with a continuously sweeping seconds hand.” Citizen developed and manufactured the Precisionist movement — whose oscillator vibrates at 262,144 times per second, eight times as fast as a standard quartz crystal — exclusively for use in Bulova watches. The oscillator has three prongs instead of the standard two and functions as a “torsional resonator,” meaning that instead of vibrating back and forth like a standard quartz-watch oscillator, the prongs twist to and fro, as in an electric guitar. Unlike other high-precision watches that rely on external time signals or need to sent away for recalibration after a battery change, Precisionist watches use lithium ion batteries that can be as easily replaced as those in other quartz timepieces.

At Baselworld 2016, Bulova introduced what it calls the world’s first curved chronograph watch, the Bulova CURV. In an engineering feat, Bulova took one of its proprietary ultra-high-frequency quartz Precisionist chronograph movements and bent it. Then it fitted the movement into an ergonomically designed, slim, curved case. The CURV collection consists of sports and dress models priced from $599 to $899. The leader model, shown here, has a see-through dial, a titanium case ($899; it also comes in steel at $799), a transparent back (rare for a quartz watch), and a black rubber strap. The CURV’s movement has a frequency of 262 kilohertz, which is eight times greater than a standard quartz watch movement. At that rate, the watch’s seconds hand does not skip from second to second as on a standard quartz watch, but moves in a continuous sweep around the dial, in the manner of a mechanical-watch hand. With the development of this very distinctive watch and movement, Bulova demonstrates its devotion to continuing its long history of watch-world firsts.

Bulova CURV

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Bulova has been gradually entering the “new vintage” trend of horology for the last few years. The company’s newest release, the Oceanographer Devil Diver— which comes in the forms of both a limited-edition, more historically accurate 40-mm orange piece, and of a non-limited, more modernly designed 44-mm model — is its most recent addition to its growing Archive Series. You might recall this series as also including the Chronograph C “Stars & Stripes” watch and the Moon Watch, both big hits among “new vintage” circles these past few years.

The “Devil Diver” watches, so nicknamed according to Bulova for the 666-ft depth rating written on their dials, find direct influence from the 1972 Bulova Oceanographer (vintage ad, via Watchsteez, pictured below). This watch was a part of a larger series of Bulova watches, which included the 1960s and ‘70s Oceanographer Snorkel series of deep-sea and skin-diver watches, and also some others outside of the diving realm, notably some water-resistant pieces more akin to a Rolex Datejust than the purpose-driven Snorkel.

The first of the two pieces we’ll look at is the 40-mm limited-edition model. This watch uses a vintage-style steel case shape, with a thick crown sans-crown guard, and a black-and-white unidirectional diving bezel to frame to popping orange dial. On the face you’ll find an array of unique attributes recalling the original piece, like its outer black circling and crosshairs; the unique applied hour markers, metal Bulova logo, and printed watch descriptors; the vintage day-and-date window; and the arrowhead minute hand. Within the 666-ft (200-meter) water-resistant case is the Sellita SW 220 automatic movement, hosting a 38-hour power reserve. This model will be limited to — appropriately for its namesake — 666 editions at $1,495, 30 of which will be engraved with the Analog/Shift logo on the caseback to commemorate that vintage watch dealer’s assistance in selecting and releasing the watch via a popular global survey.

The second of the two is the 44-mm non-limited model, heavily influenced by the vintage Oceanographer with some clear modern shifts. The case, 4 mm larger, is of a similar style to the limited edition, but features a “Coke” bezel (so named for the red and black coloring) rather than the black and white of the orange-dialed piece. The dial outlined within is a sunburst black with the series’ signature hour markers, Bulova logo, and various descriptors. It also uses a red outer circling and crosshairs, baton-style hour and minute hands, and a magnified date window absent an additional day indicator. Within this model, also water resistant to 666 ft, is a Miyota automatic caliber capable of a 40-hour power reserve. It is likely due to this Miyota movement, whose specific model is undisclosed (Miyota, like Bulova is also owned by the Japan-based Citizen Group), that the price of the non-limited model begins less expensively, at $795.

Overall, through sizing and style, the limited-edition watch is a solid, modern reissue of the vintage model. Between the contemporary and vintage models, the aesthetic differences are minuscule: the steel case is better produced and finished, the coloration and luminescence will likely last longer, and the movement is a modern Sellita compared to a vintage Bulova caliber. The brand clearly wanted to offer fans a special piece in homage to the rare and historical orange “Devil Diver,” and this reissue accomplishes just that.

In the non-limited model, in which the object was homage but not strict re-creation, we see a number of contemporary differences, though they are still framed within the historical design. These are prominently seen in the red crosshairs, the sunburst dial, and the larger case shape— all traits present in the lineage of the Oceanographer Snorkel, differentiating the watch in the modern market of purpose-built divers. Despite these changes, the non-limited model still shares plenty of features with the historical model, including some vintage traits not even seen on the orange-dial edition, like the coke bezel, baton hands, and square magnified date window (vintage model picture below, courtesy of Analog/Shift).

The two watches together mark an expansion of Bulova’s Archive Series, and show how the brand is beginning to move into move exclusive territory with its “new vintage” watches. Bulova’s previous historical homages have been more cheaply priced and used quartz movements, whereas now the brand has released not one, but two mechanical models, one of which is a limited release in cooperation with a well-respected vintage watch dealer. Time will now tell if Bulova continues this expansion, most likely with another vintage chronograph up next.

For the most recent article in the “Vintage Eye” series, in which we compare the Longines Heritage Skin Diver to its historical predecessor, click here.

Caleb Anderson is a freelance writer with a primary focus on vintage watches. Since first discovering horology, he has garnered extensive knowledge in the field and spends much of his time sharing his opinions among other writers, collectors, and dealers. Currently located near New York City, he is a persistent student in all things historical, a writer on many topics, and a casual runner.

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It’s Black Friday, the official start of the holiday gift shopping season. If you were thinking of sharing your passion for watches with the lady in your life, and looking for gift suggestions, look no further. Here we present an array of ladies’ watches, in all price ranges, introduced in 2018.

Ateliers deMonaco

Ateliers deMonaco’s Ronde de Monte-Carlo Classique is classically yet elegantly styled with a very rounded and harmonious case. The 39-mm case has a blue mother-of-pearl dial set with 300 diamonds totaling 1.33 carats. The case is 18k white gold with a titanium core and has sapphire crystals in the front and back. The caseback is secured with four screws. The automatic dMc-700 movement has a silicon escape wheel, hand decorated bridges, and a 22k gold hand engraved rotor. 42-hour power reserve. Hand-stitched alligator strap with 18k gold and titanium folding buckle. Limited edition of 88 pieces. $30,800.

Baume & Mercier

Baume & Mercier’s Promesse watch, inspired by a 1970s piece, incorporates an oval inside a round shape. The moon-phase model shown has a 34.4-mm stainless-steel case and a diamond-set bezel. The blue dial has a shaded, lacquered finish and is reminiscent of the starry night sky. Diamond indexes mark the hours. An elegant moon-phase complication shows the lunar phases at 12 o’clock. Swiss-made Ronda quartz movement. Domed sapphire crystal. Water resistant to 50 meters. Glossy blue alligator strap with pin buckle. $3,790.

Bell & Ross

The Bell & Ross BRS Diamond Eagle was introduced in 2016 and has expanded this year as an entire family, which is now available in four colors: blue, gray, white and pink. The dials are inspired by the celestial sphere and are covered by sparkling diamonds that twinkle like stars in the night sky. Each color comes in two versions: the simple variant with diamonds on the Constellation dial and the diamond model whose bezel is set with 66 diamonds. 39-mm steel case. BR-CAL.102 quartz movement. With Milanese mesh, blue or pink alligator, or gray or white satin-finished calfskin strap. The white version can be fitted with a ceramic mesh-on-rubber strap. As shown: $6,300.

Blancpain

The Quantième Retrograde is from Blancpain’s Women collection. The watches in this collection are equipped exclusively with hand-finished and decorated self-winding movements designed for timepieces with horological complications previously reserved for men. Caliber 2650RL has an off-centered hour, retrograde calendar and moon-phases and is only 5.37 mm thick. The 36-mm rose-gold case has a single row of diamonds on the bezel that total 2.00 carats. The mother-of-pearl dial is set with diamonds totaling 0.021 carats. The sapphire crystal caseback offers a view of the movement’s flower-shaped rotor. 65-hour power reserve. Ostrich strap with folding clasp. $41,300.

Bovet

The Bovet Amadeo Fleurier 39 Fan collection unveils miniature paintings produced on mother-of-pearl with fans as their theme. Fans made with feathers, silk, lace or inlaid mother-of-pearl are created on the dials of these timepieces. Each dial is a unique piece, fitting within the 39-mm diameter Fleurier Amadeo case, available in white or rose gold. The bow, bezel, and lugs are set with 227 diamonds (approx. 1.71 carats). The patented Amadeo case system allows the user to convert her watch into a reversible wristwatch, a table clock, a pocket watch or a pendant watch, without using a single tool. Self-winding Caliber 11BA13 movement has a 72-hour power reserve. Full-skin alligator strap with gold ardillon buckle. As shown: $89,300.

Breguet

This year, Breguet introduced a new interpretation of its Reine de Naples 8908. The first model in this collection debuted in 2002. The new version is distinguished by a rose-gold case, 36.50 mm by 28.45 mm, set with 128 diamonds and a dial partially crafted from Tahitian mother-of-pearl. These features enhance the main attributes of the original model, namely the moon-phase and power-reserve indicator at 12 o’clock along with the off-set hours and small seconds at 6 and 7 o’clock, respectively. The layout of these functions is inspired by the first-ever wristwatch, created by A.-L. Breguet between 1810 and 1812 for Caroline Murat, Queen of Naples. Self-winding movement, numbered and signed Breguet, with 45-hour power reserve. Black satin strap with diamond-set folding clasp. $36,100.

Carl F. Bucherer

Adding to its Adamavi collection, which combines elegance with reliable mechanics, Carl F. Bucherer is offering four new timepieces designed for women, with stainless-steel cases in the 31-mm size. These timepieces encase the CFB 1963 automatic caliber, which has a date display at 3 o’clock, a 38-hour power reserve and a slim profile of 4.8 mm. The case is only 8.3 mm thick and has a sapphire crystal in the caseback. Water resistant to 30 meters. The silver dial has silver Roman numerals and indexes. Stainless-steel bracelet and folding clasp. A smaller version with a 28-mm case is also available. As shown: $2,500.

Bulgari

For the first time, Bulgari has paired the Lucea watch with a Tubogas bracelet for added comfort on the wrist. The Tubogas is formed using long bands of gold or steel that interlock to completely conceal the bracelet’s inner structure. The 33-mm model shown has an 18k rose gold bezel, a white mother-of-pearl dial, diamond hour markers, and a date indication. The 18k rose-gold crown is set with a pink cabochon-cut stone and a diamond. The bracelet is stainless steel and 18k rose gold. Automatic movement. Also available in a 28-mm version. As shown: $11,000.

Bulova

This new watch from the Bulova Women’s Marine Star collection has a ceramic case with rose-gold-tone accents and 17 diamonds hand set on the bezel and mother-of-pearl dial. Rose-gold-tone hands and Roman numerals on the dial. Date at 3 o’clock. The 37-mm case has a sapphire crystal above the dial and a screw-on back. It is water resistant to 100 meters. Quartz movement. The white ceramic bracelet has rose-gold-tone accents and a double-press deployant closure. $775.

Citizen

The new light-powered Citizen Jolie has a bow-like silhouette, uniquely curved lugs and 40 brilliant diamonds on its bezel. The stainless-steel case is 30 mm in diameter. The dial is white mother-of-pearl with silver-colored hands and indexes. The Citizen Eco-Drive movement (Caliber E031) can generate power using any natural or artificial light source to keep the watch running without replacing the battery. Stainless-steel bracelet. $650

Eberhard & Co.

Eberhard’s Gilda collection for women features an elliptical case with soft and harmonious lines and a variety of the dials in several colors and finishes, illuminated with mother-of-pearl or enriched with diamonds, blue and pink sapphires, rubies and black brilliants. The 32.10 mm by 38 mm case comes in steel, shown, or in 18k rose gold, and has a spherical sapphire crystal. It is water resistant to 50 meters. The caseback, fastened by four concealed screws, is engraved with a delicate floral motif and the name of the model in red. With Chéri steel bracelet, shown, or crocodile strap with an elliptical steel buckle personalized with the brand’s “E.” As shown: $6,440.

F.P. Journe

The first ladies’ collection by F.P. Journe has an electro-mechanical movement with a mechanical motion detector that is visible on the dial between 4 and 5 o’clock. After 30 minutes without motion, the Élégante switches to standby mode in order to save energy and its hands stop turning. As soon as the watch is worn again, it automatically sets itself to the correct time with the hands taking the shortest path, whether clockwise or counterclockwise. This provides a long autonomy of 8 to 10 years in daily use or up to 18 years in standby mode. The 40-mm titanium case is offered with cloisonné inlays in six different colors and a matching rubber strap: white, light blue, midnight blue, pink, chocolate and khaki green. $12,000.

Frederique Constant

This new Ladies Automatic model from Frederique Constant has the brand’s signature “Heart Beat” opening at 12 o’clock. Four new colored Heart Beat dials are also enhanced with applied diamonds and Roman numeral indexes. The 36-mm case comes in an all-steel version and in steel with a rose-gold-plated bezel (shown). Water resistant to 50 meters. The FC-310 Heart Beat automatic movement has a 38-hour power reserve. Convex sapphire crystal and see-through caseback. For each Ladies Automatic watch sold, $50 is donated to DonorsChoose.org, Gwyneth Paltrow’s charity of choice. As shown, with light gray dial and sunray decoration, six applied diamonds, three rose-gold-plated indexes, and hand-polished rose-gold plated hands. Gray shiny alligator strap: $1,995.

Glashütte Original

The PanoMatic Luna From Glashütte Original has a softly curving moon relief that appears against a silver-colored starry sky on its dial. The 39.4-mm stainless-steel case has a bezel set with 64 brilliant-cut diamonds (approx. 0.95 carats) and a ruby on the crown (approx. 0.022 carats). The white mother-of-pearl dial has 18 rubies (approx. 0.045 carats) to mark the hours and hands made of white gold. Off-center hour and minutes dial, off-center small seconds subdial, stop seconds and Panorama date. Glashütte Original automatic movement 90-12 with 42-hour power reserve. Red alligator strap with steel buckle. $20,400.

Grand Seiko

The new automatic Grand Seiko caliber for women is presented in a limited edition of 50 pieces. Caliber 9S25 offers both a slim profile (just 4.49 mm in height) and a high level of performance, delivering a 50-hour power reserve and a precision of +8 to -3 seconds a day. The 28.7-mm rose-gold case has a see-through back and is water resistant to 100 meters. The dial has a rich look achieved with silver lamé that creates the texture of the snow on Mt. Iwate that overlooks the Shizukuishi studio where the watch is made. The bezel has 37 diamonds, 11 more mark the hours on the dial and one larger diamond is set into the crown (.088 total carats). Crocodile strap and additional white strap included.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

Several new models in Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Rendez-Vous women’s collection are bathing their dials, straps, hands and day/night indicators in deep midnight blue. The Rendez-Vous Night & Day watch has the delicate day/night indicator complication on its dial. The powdered, silvered numerals stand out against the sunray-finished, midnight blue dial. The Medium version shown has a 34-mm stainless-steel case and a bezel set with diamonds (approx. 0.63 carat). Jaeger-LeCoultre automatic Caliber 898A/1 has a 40-hour power reserve. The sapphire crystal caseback uncovers part of the movement. Midnight blue alligator strap. Also available in a 29-mm size. As shown: $13,100.

Jaquet Droz

The Jaquet Droz Lady 8 Petite Mother-of-Pearl has a figure-8-shaped case made of 18k rose gold with an Akoya pearl above the 12 o’clock position. The 25-mm case is set with 68 diamonds and the rose-gold ardillon buckle is set with 23 diamonds (0.64 total carats). The dial is white mother-of-pearl with a circular grain motif and the crown is topped with a white mother-of-pearl cabochon. The hands are 18k rose gold. The Jaquet Droz 615 self-winding movement has a silicon balance spring and pallet horns and a 38-hour power reserve. Rolled edge hand-made taupe alligator strap. $26,300.

Kerbedanz

Inspired by the beauty of a field of flowers, the Wild Flowers ladies’ watch has a 43-mm 18k rose-gold case designed, decorated and manufactured by Kerbedanz and set with 132 diamonds (1.62 carats). The crown is dressed with diamonds and is situated at 1:30. The solid rose-gold dial is hand decorated and is set with 12 diamonds (0.06 carat). Sapphire crystals in front and back. Water resistant to 50 meters. Automatic in-house movement KRB-03 caliber with 120-hour power reserve. Alligator strap with 18k gold double folding clasp with Kerbedanz design. Available on special request. $50,000.

Longines

Longines is adopting the brand’s signature blue color for the dials and straps of its new La Grande Classique de Longines collection. The collection is distinguished by its delicate slim profile, which is made possible by the unique construction: the back of the case also serves as the lugs of the strap, a technique that is patented by Longines. The blue sunray dial is available with inlaid stone, inlaid diamond or Roman numeral hour markers with either a blue alligator strap or a stainless-steel bracelet. The case size may be 24, 29, 36 or 37 mm. ETA quartz movement; an automatic ETA movement is available for the 36-mm version. As shown, 24-mm version with 36 Top Wesselton diamonds on the bezel (approx. 0.302 carat): $2,950.

Montblanc

The Montblanc Bohème Automatic Date combines fine watchmaking and a distinctly feminine design. Hours, minutes and seconds are indicated with leaf and baton-shaped blue hands. The date is shown through a unique elliptical opening at 6 o’clock. The mother-of-pearl dial has a delicate blue dot pattern for the minutes, a shell guilloché center with 60 facets, a guilloché border, and blue floral Arabic numerals. It is set with 8 Top Wesselton diamonds (0.048 carats). The 30-mm stainless-steel case has integrated horns and a sapphire crystal caseback. Automatic movement MB 24.14 has a 38-hour power reserve. The strap is blue jean alligator leather with a strap-changing mechanism. $2,775.

Nomos Glashütte

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The latest Nomos Tangente marks the 100th anniversary of the Bauhaus movement in 2019 with nine versions, each limited to 100 pieces, inspired by the sketchbooks of renowned Bauhaus artists. Each has a sketch-paper colored dial and oxidized black numerals and hands, surrounded by a ring in one of the primary colors – red, yellow or blue – in three case sizes, 33, 35 or 38 mm. The stainless-steel case has a sapphire crystal in front and a steel back with special limited-edition engraving. Manual-wind Nomos Caliber Alpha is only 2.6 mm high and has been adjusted in six positions. It has a power reserve of 43 hours. Black Horween Genuine Shell Cordovan strap. As shown, with 33-mm case: $1,660.

Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe has added a new blue-gray color as another choice for the Reference 5067 Aquanaut Luce in stainless steel. The dial reflects a casual sporty look with Aquanaut-style blue-gray embossing and luminescent hour markers and hands. The new color underscores the youthful design. The bezel is set with 46 diamonds (approx. 1 carat). Quartz movement, Caliber E23-250 S C. 35.6-mm case with solid caseback. Water resistant to 120 meters. Blue-gray composite material strap with Aquanaut fold-over clasp. $16,220.

Rolex

Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31

Rolex has introduced new versions of the Oyster Perpetual Datejust 31, with redesigned case sides and lugs and a range of original dials. Offered in 18k white, yellow or Everose gold, the models have 31-mm cases and are powered by Rolex Caliber 2236, which carries Superlative Chronometer certification. It has a self-winding module via a Perpetual rotor and a 55-hour power reserve. The screw-down winding crown is fitted with the Twinlock double water-resistance system, water resistant to 100 meters. The scratch-resistant sapphire crystal has a Cyclops lens over the date at 3 o’clock. The watches are fitted on a President bracelet, which has a concealed folding Crownclasp. As shown, in white gold with a diamond-set bezel and mother-of-pearl diamond-set dial: $44,550

TAG Heuer

The TAG Heuer Aquaracer Lady is now equipped with automatic movement Caliber 9 and is water resistant to 300 meters. The watch has a unidirectional rotating bezel with 12 facets and six polished lugs. The power reserve is 42 hours. The hands and indexes are coated with white Super-Lumi-Nova for optimal visibility in deep water. The steel case is 32 mm in diameter and has a black or white mother-of-pearl dial. The dial may be set will 11 diamonds as shown (0.11 carat). The bracelet is made of steel with alternating brushed links on the outside and polished ones in the center. As shown: $2,550.

Tutima Glashütte

Tutima is offering its Saxon One Lady on a stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp. The watch has a 36-mm stainless-steel case with a faceted design. It has a screw-down crown and is available with or without diamonds on the bezel. The mother-of-pearl dial has silver index markers and a date window at 3 o’clock. Domed sapphire crystal above the dial and sapphire window in the caseback. Water resistant to 100 meters. Automatic Caliber TUT 340 movement with a 42-hour power reserve. Also available on an alligator strap in various colors with a folding clasp. As shown: $6,500.

Ulysse Nardin

In 2013, Ulysse Nardin launched their Jade model as a tribute to that revered gemstone. This year, five new Classico Jade ladies’ watches pay homage to an even more precious stone: the diamond. Each new Jade model has a 37-mm stainless-steel case and a mother-of-pearl dial with 10 diamonds (0.052 carats) swirled in a leaf-wave motif across the lower left quadrant. Three of the models, in blue, gray or dark red, have 76 diamonds on the bezel (1.072 carats); the other two variants, in blue or gray, have unadorned steel bezels. Blue, gray or dark red Arabic numerals. Sapphire crystal above the dial. Engraved caseback. Self-winding UN-815 movement with 42-hour power reserve. Leather strap in blue, white or garnet red with pin buckle. As shown: $9,900.

Vacheron Constantin

Malte small model 81015/000R-B282

Vacheron Constantin’s Malte collection is named for a watch component that has become the brand’s emblem. The tonneau-shaped case sets the stage for the most prestigious watch mechanisms. This Malte Small Modèle has a rose-gold case that measures 28.40 mm by 38.67 mm and is only 7.72 mm thick. It has a sapphire crystal caseback through which manual-winding Caliber 1400 AS can be seen. The movement is just 2.60 mm thick and has a 40-hour power reserve. Rose-gold crown, indexes, Roman numerals and hands. Small seconds at 6 o’clock. As shown, on an alligator strap with rose-gold ardillon buckle: $20,700.

Wempe

The Wempe Zeitmeister line has a clear design paired with technical precision. The Zeitmaster Manchette shown has a gold-plated stainless-steel case that measures 25 mm by 36 mm and is set with 28 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.70 carats). The mother-of-pearl dial has 11 diamond hour markers (0.05 carats) and the gold-plated crown is set with a diamond (0.025 carats). A sapphire crystal is above the dial. The ETA 980.163 quartz movement has a stop-seconds function and a small seconds subdial. The caseback features a laser engraving of the Wempe observatory in Glashütte, Germany. Gold-plated stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp. Also available in a smaller version measuring 22.5 mm by 34 mm. As shown: $3,440.

WatchTime’s editorial team (as well as all our international colleagues from Mexico, India, Dubai, Germany and China to just name a few) spent several days on the ground in Basel, visited a majority of the brands present (some of them have already been covered here), and are now working on the Baselworld special for the upcoming issue of WatchTime magazine (July). Until then, we’re certain you will appreciate a slightly more personal selection of some the highlights seen by Roger Ruegger (RR), Mark Bernardo (MB) and Logan R. Baker (LRB):

How did this year’s Baselworld compare to previous years?

RR: Interestingly, the show was as busy for me as it was the years before, even though there were significantly fewer brands (this year, only 520 brands exhibited at Baselworld 2019, down from about 1,300 in 2017), and consequently fewer watches were launched during the show. Also, people weren’t afraid this year to openly question the future of Baselworld, which sometimes created a difficult environment to have a constructive dialogue about the importance and future of the show (or the problems we’d face without it). The new press center certainly was an improvement for everyone doing live coverage, and it was much less difficult to get a table in a restaurant. What didn’t change though is the typical feeling that you hadn’t managed to see and talk to everyone the day I left. Oh, and I only lost one lens cap this year, which was a substantial improvement.

MB: Certainly the absence of large exhibitors like the Swatch Group, Movado Group, and Swarovski was noticeable, and the halls during the height of the show were not nearly as jam-packed as in previous years. For a journalist on the move, dashing from appointment to appointment and back and forth to the press room, however, this was not always a bad thing. And the relocation of the press center, from across the street in the Hall 1 annex to the heart of the main Hall 1, the space formerly occupied by the massive Swatch Group Pavilion, was mostly a very positive change, although it meant less time walking between the buildings across the courtyard and thus less time outside to enjoy the uncommonly lovely spring weather that Baselworld was blessed with this year.

LRB: This being my second Baselworld fair, I don’t have much to compare this year’s show to, but I can say that while Swatch Group’s missing presence was felt heavily through the hall, it did allow other smaller brands — that don’t always get the love that they deserve — to shine. Being able to meet with these brands on a more macro scale rather than focus on heavy hitters like Breguet, Blancpain, and Omega made the show, from a journalistic perspective, a bit more diverse and interesting. Echoing Roger and Mark, the press center was much easier to access than ever before. 

What was the highlight of the show for you?

RR: The Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT from Bulgari was certainly one of the most important launches we saw this year. Speaking of chronographs, Carl F. Bucherer‘s Bicompax Annual hit the mark for me. I was also very impressed by Grand Seiko’s new line-up, Seiko’s additions to the Prospex collection, Bulova’s continued Archive Series, and how Patek managed to show several new watches that will certainly attract a younger audience as well. Last but not least, MB&F’s first attempt in creating a women’s watch serves as a masterclass in how it’s done. 

Zenith Defy Inventor

MB: I had anticipated that Zenith would go all-in to celebrate the 50^th anniversary of its El Primero chronograph movement — definitely one of the most significant horological anniversaries of the year — and the brand did not disappoint, even though some of the special anniversary editions had already been seen in Geneva during SIHH. The evolution of the Defy Lab into the Defy Inventor, while not totally unexpected, was the type of next-generation technical innovation deserving of the spotlight in the El Primero’s anniversary year. It also bears mentioning that even though Defy and El Primero-based chronographs were obviously Zenith’s big story in 2019, the company also put out some wickedly attractive timepieces in its Pilot’s collection, as well. The Type 20 Extra Special Silver, with its silver case and riveted dial, looked especially stunning in the metal.

LRB: I truly believe that Breitling had the strongest collection at Basel from top to bottom. There wasn’t a single weak model presented during the fair and each model made complete sense from a market perspective. The 1959 Navitimer Re-Edition is a plain gorgeous watch and the trio of Navitimers released to honor Swiss Air, TWA, and Pan Am authentically capture the funkiness that makes collecting Navitimers from the 1970s and 1980s such a widespread pursuit. Watching CEO Georges Kern slowly release each model on his personal Instagram during the days leading up to the show was a great example of engagement from the executive level and just demonstrates once more that the man clearly knows what he is doing.

What was this year’s most unexpected release for you?

RR: The 5172G from Patek Philippe was something I had secretly hoped to see; the Tudor Black Bay P01 was the one watch I totally did not see coming. But what might have been more surprising to me were the watches we didn’t get to see from a lot of other brands. Baselworld’s Michel Loris-Melikoff called 2019 a “transitional year”, and it felt like quite a lot of the heavy-weights did the same, as if they were holding back. As a side note, I was amazed how many brands, Bell & Ross’ BR V2-92 Military for example, were showing watches with straps inspired by the ones used by combat divers from the French Marine Nationale (nowadays often referred to as “Erika’s Originals,” named after strap purveyor Erika op den Kelder). Move over, NATO strap.

MB: Bulova releasing an entirely new collection with Swiss-made mechanical movements was certainly not something that most would have predicted. The Joseph Bulova series, named for the man who founded the brand in New York in 1875, is comprised of 16 vintage-influenced styles, all limited editions of 350, pulled from the company’s extensive archives, specifically models produced from the 1920s through the 1940s. All of the watches are equipped with Swiss-made Sellita SW300 automatic movements (a nice nod to history, since Joseph Bulova would have certainly been working with mechanical movements during his era, albeit probably American-made ones rather than Swiss-made) and priced at or below $1,500.

LRB: MB&F has to be commended for the daring execution of its first ladies’ model. Rather than recreate one of their LM or HM timepieces into more feminine dimensions, they instead took a risk by crafting an entirely new vertical movement topped with a flying tourbillon. The Urban Jürgensen One collection which includes a number of firsts for the independent brand such as its first bracelet, its first manufacture-produced automatic movement, its first travel-time watch, and its first luxury sports watch was a welcome surprise. I’ve seen the lineup catch a bit of flak on social media due to it being such a departure from the identity that Urban Jürgensen has established, but I think this comes at the perfect time for the brand to reenergize its clientele and capture some additional market share around the world once Audemars Piguet officially leaves multi-brand boutiques. Speaking of brands introducing new bracelets, the new Nomos Tangente and Club Sport models turned out quite nice and need to be seen in person to be fully appreciated.

In your opinion, what was the best entry-level watch under $2,000?

RR: You’d certainly have to look at brands like Oris (Pointer Date with red dial), Sinn (104 St SA AG), Seiko (Presage with Arita porcelain dial SPB093), Doxa (Sub 200), and Squale (T183 with the 1521’s case in layered carbon). Personally, the rectangular Joseph Bulova Swiss Made Automatic Collection was my biggest surprise.

MB: The aforementioned Joseph Bulova models would be in the running, of course, though my personal favorite comes from Seiko’s Presage collection, which continues to astound with its formula of beautiful designs, high-end finishing, and automatic mechanical movements at almost unbelievably reasonable prices. This year’s standouts were a three-hand and a power-reserve model with dials made of Arita porcelain, a traditional Japanese artisanal process used here for the first time in watchmaking, and priced at just 1,195 euros. 

LRB: Roger and Mark effectively covered Citizen and Seiko, but G-Shock deserves mention as well due to its strong showing. The Japanese brand introduced a Carbon Core Guard case construction that it is marketing as the latest testament to the toughness doctrine that inventor Kikuo Ibe instilled in the G-Shock from its beginning. The two models that stood out the strongest for me include the iridescent MTG-B1000RB and a new addition to the popular Full Metal collection in black aged IP that should keep G-Shock enthusiasts sated. On the Swiss and German side of things, I was immediately attracted to the Doxa Sub 200 (approx. $900), the continued evolution of the Tutima M2 Coastline (more on that later), and the Oris Clean Ocean LE (slightly over $2k). All three offer a lot of bang for your buck.

 What was the most exciting new release for you?

RR: After seeing how good the Black Bay P01 looked on my wrist, I really appreciate that Tudor didn’t just release another color version in the Black Bay collection. Nevertheless, the Octo Finissimo Chronograph GMT from Bulgari provided the main reason for a faster heart rate.

MB: Minus brands like Breguet, Blancpain, Glashutte Original, and Harry Winston, who opted out with the rest of the Swatch Group, and former stalwarts like Ulysse Nardin and Girard-Perregaux, which decamped to SIHH a few years ago, this Baselworld was more about new colors than new complications. That said, I found myself drawn mostly to the growing field of military-themed pieces, like Breitling’s Aviator 8 Curtiss Warhawk series, Bell & Ross’s Br 03-92 MA-1 piece and bronze-cased Bellytanker, and even Tudor’s controversial Black Bay P01, mainly for the fascinating history behind it. I also think that TAG Heuer made a very market-friendly move by turning the Autavia into its own three-hand, time-only collection equipped with the brand’s new carbon composite hairspring. Honorable mention here to Rolex, which got a bit daring in an otherwise low-key year with an all-black Yacht-Master 42.

LRB: As someone fascinated by the pursuit of chronometric perfection through high-accuracy quartz, Citizen’s Caliber 0100 (specced to +/- one second per year!) is a fascinating development and something that every watch fan, even mechanical purists, can — and should — be excited about. Seeing Kari Voutilainen flip the switch on his usual aesthetic with the 28ti was a shock at first but as with every watch produced by the Finnish mastermind, the quality is just far beyond a majority of his peers. Additionally, being able to see the finalized version of the GPHG-winning Akrivia Chronometré Contemporain from the young master Rexhep Rexhepi was a treat beyond words. For the lucky few that secured an order, you can expect delivery to start soon. 

What timepiece released during the fair are you most likely to purchase this year? 

RR: I am not going to buy another Bulova Snorkel this year, but the Citizen Limited Edition Promaster Aqualand is high on my list. And even though I already have a Sumo, the green SPB103J1 from Seiko (with the new 6R35) currently stands a fair chance to find its way on my wrist (since I already have the 6105, I won’t go for the Captain Willard-re-issue). Most importantly, we did get to preview (which technically makes it eligible for this category) a watch from Oris during the show that really got me excited. Like really.

MB: I may finally need to pull the trigger on a Seiko Presage, one of which I reviewed back in 2017. The other new model that I found it hard to take off my wrist and return was the new Oris Aquis model with a mint-green dial, which made me want to run out and buy a new green-themed wardrobe just to accessorize with it for wrist shots.

LRB: The Tutima M2 Coastline was one of the highlights for me during last year’s Basel fair thanks to its clean dial that still offered a lot of visual appeal, its attractive brushed titanium case and bracelet, and the overall accessible price tag. This year, the Glashütte-based brand extended the range with a number of new dial colors and a chronograph. I never expected to own a green-dialed watch, but there’s a strong likelihood this one ends up on my wrist permanently by the end of 2019.

If you had unlimited funds, what new watch would you purchase?

RR: That would most likely be the Patek Philippe Chronograph 5172G, or the new Nautilus Annual Calendar 5726/1A.

MB: Patek Philippe nearly always wins in this category; this year’s grail is the new Nautilus Annual Calendar with the gradient blue dial that has added another level of gorgeous to Nautilus models of recent years. Chopard’s new crop of complicated L.U.C timepieces, which are all quite elegant and wearable despite their high levels of complication, would be quite tempting as well, especially the new Flying T Twin, with its honeycomb guilloché dial. And Hublot, despite its strong focus on Ferrari models this year, somewhat quietly put out a new version of its iconoclastic Sang Bleu edition, an aesthetic outlier for the brand that I have always appreciated.

LRB: The Romain Gauthier Insight Micro-Rotor has been atop my grail list for quite a while now. While less technically intriguing than the GPHG-winning Logical One, for me it just makes the most sense as a daily wearer — and trust me, it would be on my wrist every single day. This year, the black titanium iteration that made my heart swoon last year returned with a new blue grand feu enamel dial. Other than that, it would be an absolute privilege to own one of the 30 Grand Seiko SBGZ001 Snowflake models with a hand-carved platinum case that matches the Snowflake dial motif.

How should the show change for 2020?

RR: First of all, Baselworld’s main problem isn’t the show per se, it has simply become way too expensive and frustrating to attend for a lot of exhibitors. I think the show’s new management already has some great ideas on how to make the show more attractive for end-consumers (and I’d suggest not adding more cars). But most importantly, the brands will have to support Baselworld with coordinating their releases: If the industry’s largest show isn’t the platform to launch the most important new watches of the year, why would anyone have to travel to Basel in 2020? At the end of the day, it is still about watches (and yes, also about jewelry) and the people that make, sell or wear them. Everything else, the networking, purchasing, reporting etc. will still require amazing releases from the brands attending the show.

MB: It should embrace some of the changes it promised for 2019, such as affordable food options, which to most guests I spoke to were nowhere to be found despite pre-show guarantees. More seating in the press room, and more electrical outlets, would also be desirable for those of us actually trying to produce content on-site rather than just schmooze over coffee and croissants. And I’m sure the independent watch brands that collectively exhibit in the Les Ateliers would love to know what space they’ll be in next year after several shifts. As Baselworld and SIHH will coordinate their schedules next year, with one show right on top of the other, it is inevitable that the two experiences will be compared even more starkly than before, and Baselworld’s show-runners would do well to up its luxury game.

LRB: I’m a fairly simple guy. All I truly need to do my job at these trade shows (other than obvious essentials like my laptop and camera and those damned plug adaptors that I continuously misplace) is a spot to fill up my water bottle or grab a quick glass of water (or two) when I’m rushing between appointments. And a decent Wi-Fi signal. Both of these things are in short supply within Basel’s Messeplatz. This is something that SIHH in Geneva has figured out long ago and, unfortunately, Basel still lacks.

What did you see outside of Basel that really excited you?

RR: Technically not outside of Basel, but the new Watch Incubator was so well hidden that I almost didn’t find it: Laventure is one of the more accessibly priced brands I have been following closely that I finally got to see in person. Outside of Baselworld, I got to meet with Orient, and, speaking of excitement, I got a preview of what we can expect next from Laurent Ferrier.

MB: One consequence of Baselworld squeezing into a single hall rather than the multiple halls of the past was that there were, to my reckoning, even more small brands than usual that eschewed the costs of showing their wares at an official Baselworld booth and instead, set up shop in the nearby hotels. Often these hanger-on indies are among those offering some of the most interesting new pieces, and this year was no exception. H. Moser & Cie followed up its strong SIHH collection with a new “Funky Blue” version of its clever Endeavour Flying Hours watch, for example, and Graham celebrated the anniversary of the D-Day Invasion (yes, another military piece) with a limited edition of 75 bronze-cased Chronofighter models.

LRB: Ever since Pierre Jacques returned to the role of CEO in late 2017, I think De Bethune has been on the longest hot streak in the watch world. After last year’s GPHG-winning Starry Varius, the independent brand has started 2019 off with the release of its first dive watch and the return of the beloved Maxichrono. Also on the high-end independent side, Greubel Forsey unveiled a technical masterpiece with the new Quadruple Tourbillon GMT. Of the more accessibly priced brands I met with, St.Louis-based Monta released its most compelling timepiece yet with the Atlas GMT. It was also great to grab a few beers with Chase and John from Oak & Oscar and finally see the Humboldt in the metal. Its bidirectional bezel had some of the crispest action I’ve seen this year. And over at Fossil HQ, Zodiac continued its strong run of recent releases with the Aerospace GMT.

Follow this link for more about the watches shown during Baselworld 2019.

About a month ago, after writing on the Citizen Tsuno Chronograph Racer, the publicist I was borrowing the watch from for the article let me know they were the first to have the retail model of the Bulova Oceanographer Devil Diver in New York. I’ve written on the watch before after its initial release, but this was one of the first market models available for review, which I did so over the course of a couple weeks.

To refresh, the new Devil Diver was released in 2018 after a survey jointly conducted by the Citizen-owned brand and the New York based vintage watch dealer Analog/Shift asked fans which of three models they should re-issue, and the 1972 Bulova Oceanographer was chosen (picture below, via Watchsteez). This historic watch — so nicknamed for its 666-ft depth rating written on its bright orange dial — was a part of the 1960s and ‘70s Oceanographer Snorkel series. It wasn’t the most beautiful or technologically advanced diver, but it had an interesting dial, comfortably sized 40-mm case, and could take a beating, so they were popular in their time and remain so today among vintage collectors

When I first received the modern Devil Diver, my mind was quickly drawn back to the days when I was regularly selling vintage watches and these Bulova Snorkel watches in particular. Upon first glance, the piece is a vintage re-issue through and through, from its slightly domed 40-mm steel case with black and white bezel, to its fascinatingly retro dial with its applied opaque hour markers, crosshair, and bright orange background. I think I was a bit taken aback by the orangeness of it: the color is plainly not all too common in watches and among the few (mostly dive) watches that use it, its purpose is almost solely to draw attention for maximum visibility while under the waves. This particular model also wasn’t one of the signed Analog/Shift watches, which were limited to thirty copies while the re-issue as a whole is limited to 666 editions. Instead the case back was simple and utilitarian, as expected for the tool watch. Ultimately, it felt like a slightly brighter and more refined new old stock Devil Diver, which was Bulova’s primary intention with the re-issue.

After about a week with the watch, when the initial luster having something shiny in your possession begins to fade, I still appreciated the vintage features of the piece, but I did begin to reach for my regular wearers. The screw-down crown, while coolly signed with the Bulova’s logo and using the same sizing as the vintage, was quite difficult to adjust— a feature that I likely wouldn’t have given so much thought if I didn’t need to keep adjusting it every ten minutes or so while photographing.

The only real issue I took with the watch was in the bracelet: the finishing was not the highest quality in the world, and while the secondary safety clasp was a nice touch, it was difficult to open with a nail or finger alone which I could imagine becoming quite frustrating. With that said, the watch was surprisingly comfortable for its thickness, and I didn’t find myself releasing the bracelet often. Whether the quality of a bracelet is a deal breaker on a watch, I would say no — you can always change it out — but a modern silicone strap would have been a welcome addition, even if breaking with the historical accuracy of the model.

The watch was clearly made with collectors in mind. For Bulova, a massive brand with incredible manufacturing power and market reach, to produce a limited-edition vintage reissue at higher price point than is typical for the brand speaks to nothing else. For reference the piece is listed by the brand at just under $1500. Whereas their other vintage style pieces are priced significantly lower, with the Lunar pilot initially retailing for $675, and the Chronograph C “Stars and Stripes” listed for $750. That the watch hasn’t completely sold out yet at a relatively low production run of 666 models may further speak to a slight overestimation of interest in the re-issue, though some buyers may be opting to the more modern neo-vintage style black version at 44-mm and priced far below at $795.

Sales aside, it is an interesting design reviving what was and is a pretty popular vintage model. The dial is very attractive, and between its color and hour markers I frequently found myself admiring it, and even more frequently found myself in conversation discussing it with curious friends. Is it the best re-issue to emerge from Bulova in the past few years? No. But it speaks to the brand’s continued effort in the vintage re-issue and neo-vintage space, and further indicates their likely continued willingness to produce watches within it going forward. An observation verified by the multiple new Devil Diver colorways and the new Bulova Computron LED both released during Baselworld 2019.

For the most recent article in the “Vintage Eye” series, in which we discuss the historical inspirations behind the RGM Model 222-RR, click here.

Caleb Anderson is a freelance writer with a primary focus on vintage watches. Since first discovering horology, he has garnered extensive knowledge in the field and spends much of his time sharing his opinions among other writers, collectors, and dealers. Currently located near New York City, he is a persistent student in all things historical, a writer on many topics, and a casual runner.

It’s that time of the year again. Tomorrow night, Christie’s will host its first New York auction of 2019 after successful sales in Dubai, Geneva, and Hong Kong. We recently had the chance to preview all 100 watches up for bidding at Christie’s New York showroom in Rockefeller Plaza and here are a few of the top lots that we’ll be watching throughout the night.

Starting us off is Lot #11, a timepiece that has been receiving a lot of attention recently due to the 50th anniversary of the moon landing. Yes, this Omega Speedmaster is the original inspiration behind this year’s limited-edition release that sold out immediately. Just like the 2019 commemorative edition in Omega’s proprietary Moonshine gold alloy, the famous Ref. 145.022 was limited to 1,014 numbered pieces with only numbers 33 through 1,014 of the original reference being offered for sale to the public. The first 33 editions were presented at an “Astronauts Appreciation Dinner” in Houston on November 25, 1969, which celebrated the success of Apollo 11 the previous summer. (Model number “1” was famously intended for the U.S. President at the time, Richard Nixon, but had to be returned due to government protocol involving gifts; learn more here.) As the very first commemorative limited-edition timepiece issued by Omega, the case is made of 18k yellow gold, features a rare burgundy-colored bezel made of anodized aluminum, and, on the first 32 of the 1,014 numbered pieces that were issued to astronauts, watch industry leaders and politicians, the inscription, “To mark man’s conquest of space with time, through time, on time.” The rest of the watches, including Lot #11 in this Christie’s sale, include a commemorative seal noting “The first watch worn on the moon.” According to Christie’s, “There were three different types of engraving: thin and unpainted for approximately the first 100 examples, then thick and unpainted and finally thick and painted with a burgundy color, which complements its burgundy colored bezel.” The watch up for sale tomorrow night is from the latter version, with thick painted lettering, and is #486 out of 1,014. It is in pristine condition and is expected to sell for between $25,000 and $30,000. I’ll be watching closely to see if it tops that, in my opinion, rather conservative estimate given the renewed interest in the moon landing this year and the fact that a number of the younger collectors who purchased one of the 2019 re-editions might be looking to add its progenitor to their collection.

Next is Lot 18, an incredibly special watch that should appeal to Rolex and Tudor fanatics with an interest in the brand’s shared history. Released in the mid-1950s, Ref. 7923 is the only Submariner that Rolex/Tudor ever produced with a manual-wind movement. This version features an engraving of “ROW” on the movement that indicates it was intended for the U.S. market. The watch comes without its bezel, which was lost decades ago. Other details of note include the red depth rating of “100/330” and the lollipop seconds hand. This is without a doubt one of the most compelling timepieces in the entire auction and I’ll be eagerly watching to see what it hammers for. Estimate: $100,000 – $150,000.

As a born-and-raised Texan, it’s a fairly rare occasion when my home state lands in the horological news cycle. This time it’s because an ultra-rare Paul Newman Daytona has been unearthed that bears the signature of Linz Brothers Jewelers, a Dallas-based boutique founded in the late 1800s. While retailer signatures aren’t necessarily uncommon in the watch auction world (timepieces signed by Tiffany & Co., Gubelin, or Serpico Y Laino are some of the most prized), a Linz Brothers signature, appearing underneath 12 o’clock in a bold script, is. Despite the jeweler being one of the largest retailers for Rolex in the 1960s U.S., an extremely small number of watches with the Linz signature have ever come to market. Even fewer have been found on the dials of the legendary Rolex Paul Newman Daytona. Estimate: $300,000 – $500,000

Next up is a stainless steel chronograph from Bulova that was once owned by The Yankee Clipper himself, Joe DiMaggio. DiMaggio owned a number of fine timepieces throughout his life, including a Patek Philippe Ref. 130 that hammered for over $280,000 at Christie’s in late 2018. This Bulova chronograph dates back to 1944 when DiMaggio served in the U.S. Air Force during World War II. It was made especially for the American market, as indicated by the movement import code stamp, BXW, and was originally presented to DiMaggio in 1944. The case back is engraved: 7th Air Force, J. P. DiMaggio, Baseball, 1944. It comes with a Letter of Provenance signed by DiMaggio’s granddaughter as well as one signed by the nephew of Joe DiMaggio’s chauffeur, who wore the watch for a number of years. Finally, it’s accompanied by a typewritten four-page set of orders issued to Joe DiMaggio regarding Air Force assignments in the U.S. and a picture of DiMaggio in his Air Force uniform taken from the family’s personal collection. Estimate: $25,000 – $50,000

Perhaps the most intriguing watch in the auction for vintage Patek Philippe collectors is Lot 94, a Ref. 3448G that is believed to be one of only six models in white gold to come to market with a matching white gold bracelet. The watch comes from the family of the original owner and is in superlative condition with an untouched and unspoiled enamel dial. Reference 3448 is well known for being the world’s first automatic perpetual calendar wristwatch when it was introduced in 1962. According to Christie’s, “a total of 586 examples were made, the majority in yellow gold cases. Only around 130 were cased in white gold, two in platinum and one in pink gold are known to exist to date.” This specific model was manufactured in 1969 and the presence of the Gay Frères detachable bracelet in white gold makes it an incredibly compelling timepiece for students of Patek Philippe history. Estimate: $300,000 – $500,000

The Christie’s “An Evening of Exceptional Watches” sale takes place on June 6, 2019, at 6:00 p.m. EDT.  You can explore the rest of the 100 lots here.

Happy bidding!

Bulova’s reissue of the “Devil Diver,” the 666-foot water-resistant Oceanographer Snorkel, is currently one of the more affordable options for those looking for a new watch with a retro design. We got our hands on one of the first pieces sold in the U.S. when it hit the market in autumn of 2018.

Bulova Oceanographer Snorkel, aka “Devil Diver”

Bulova has been successfully reintroducing watches based on a vintage design for the last few years. The company’s latest release, the Oceanographer Devil Diver from the ’70s, comes both as a limited, more historically accurate 41-mm version with an orange dial, and as a non-limited 44-mm model with a black dial.

The 2018-introduced Oceanographer “Devil Diver” reissue is based on a watch from 1972.

The box sapphire crystal has a square internal date magnifier.

Unlike the reissue of the Lunar Pilot Chronograph that went to space, Bulova’s Oceanographer didn’t exactly become famous for being used during dangerous underwater missions. Neither was the model prominently worn by legendary divers, nor did it set new records in diving history or introduce a new mechanical invention to the world of underwater timekeeping. Bulova itself even advertised it with the desk diver in mind. “Not everybody who wears the Snorkel is an aquanaut. It just makes you feel like one. It’s that kind of a watch.” – was one of the messages used in ads during the ’70s. On top of that, snorkeling, or the snorkel itself, is definitely not the most exciting piece of diving equipment or the most glamorous aspect of underwater exploration. In other words, the Oceanographer was a great watch, but so were many others during that time. What made this particular model stand out, however, was the simple fact that Bulova decided to print “666 feet” on the dial (which was not only slightly more than most of its 600-foot-water-resistant competitors had to offer, but it also led to the nickname “Devil Diver,” which – if you think about it – sounds much more exciting than “Snorkel”). In combination with a rotating bezel with black and red sections, applied tubes filled with luminous material and a case design often found in dive watches from that period, the “Devil Diver” earned itself a bit of a cult following for its alter ego and its more affordable price. And, thankfully, Bulova also used other messages to sell the watch, for example, “This Bulova Oceanographer was designed for the man who is very brave. Or slightly crazy.”

Bulova has even replicated the applied indexes that come as transparent cylinders filled with lume.

The watch measures 14.55 mm in height and is equipped with a screw-in crown.

The new Oceanographer “Devil Diver” is based on the 1972 version. It features a black dial with crosshairs and modern upgrades like a 44-mm case, a box-shaped sapphire crystal with blue anti-reflective coating and a double-press folding clasp on the bracelet. The watch is also equipped with a stainless-steel screw-back case with a screw-down crown. Inside, Bulova went with a Caliber 821D from Miyota (Miyota is, like Bulova, part of the Citizen group of companies), a 26-mm automatic movement with 21 jewels, 21,600 vph and a 42-hour power reserve. Miyota claims that the non-hacking caliber offers an accuracy of -20 /+40 seconds per day, and while the choice of what’s usually described as a “workhorse” movement makes absolute sense for a watch like the Oceanographer, the Miyota 9015 would perhaps have been a slightly more modern choice. In short, expect a reliable, simple automatic movement that has been successfully on the market for quite some time. Don’t expect a nicely finished, modern movement performing within chronometer specifications. As an alternative, the limited edition uses the same vintage-style steel case shape, but comes with a black-and-white unidirectional diving bezel to frame a bright orange dial and has a snake-head minutes hand. Within the 666-foot (200-meter) water-resistant case is the Sellita SW220-1 automatic movement, offering a 38-hour power reserve, hacking and bidirectional winding. This model is limited to – appropriately for its namesake – 666 pieces, but is priced at $1,495, of which 30 pieces are engraved with the Analog/Shift logo on the caseback to commemorate the vintage watch dealer’s assistance in selecting the watch via online survey.

Even with an increased case diameter, the hands are still comparatively short, due to the tall indexes.

The “666 feet” printed on the dial ultimately led to the nickname “Devil Diver.”

The “Devil Diver” is currently one of two options launched in 2018 by established brands that have a list price below $1,000 (and let’s not forget the even less expensive Turtle that was brought back by Seiko in 2015). The other one would be the Certina DS PH200M, a descendant of the PH200M from 1967 that also debuted in 2018 and is powered by the Powermatic 80. The Bulova offers a more “chunky” ’70s design and the bezel (60 clicks) with an additional glass insert adds more depth and style to the overall appearance. On top of that, the Bulova is equipped with a sapphire crystal (compared to the mineral on the Certina) and comes with a metal bracelet that looks and feels as ’70s as it can get. Which means, don’t expect a massive folding clasp, but enjoy the almost liquid feel of the bracelet. On the dial, Bulova also kept the look of the original intact: transparent plastic cylinders filled with luminous material still create a rather unique look, especially at night. Unfortunately, the tall, applied indexes still require a comparatively short set of hands. In summary, the watch wears smaller than its 44-mm diameter might indicate, mostly due to the tapered case and the short hands.

The dial, fully charged, at night

The “Devil Diver” is powered by the Miyota 821D with 21,600 vph (3Hz).

Overall, we especially liked that Bulova seemed to be, pardon the pun, hell-bent on preserving the original look of the Oceanographer. The result is a watch that does stand out, partly because of its unique black-and-red color combination, but also since there aren’t that many watches currently available with a case shaped like this. For a price of $795, buyers can travel back in time and get a mechanical watch with a three-year warranty that feels substantial on the wrist. Of course, a more exclusive movement would have been the icing on the cake, but it’s fair to say that a price like this would certainly no longer have been possible. What’s interesting is that Bulova decided not to print the country of origin on the dial. The one thing we’d wish for, after having worn the watch for a couple of weeks, was a different execution of the applied logo on the dial: the connecting parts between the letters occasionally appear more dominant than the letters themselves. But overall, Bulova has once again introduced a faithful reproduction of a vintage original and has proven that a fun watch with a mechanical movement doesn’t need to break your bank. And this time, you certainly don’t have to be “brave” or “crazy” to buy one.

The Bulova Oceanographer from 2018 comes with a stainless-steel bracelet with a folding clasp.

SPECS:
Manufacturer: Bulova Corporation, Empire State Building, 350 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10118
Reference number: 98B320
Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds and date
Movement: Self-winding (unidirectional) mechanical Caliber Miyota 821D, 21,600 vph (3Hz), approx. 42-hour power reserve, diameter = 26 mm, height = 5.67 mm
Case: Stainless-steel case with solid caseback, screw-in crown, sapphire crystal with blue anti-reflective coating, water resistant to 200 m
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Stainless-steel bracelet with folding clasp
Dimensions: Diameter = 44 mm, height = 14.55 mm
Price: $795

This article originally appeared in the March-April 2019 issue of WatchTime.

Art Deco, as a descriptor, has become a little overused in the luxe-focused world of watch marketing. Too often, in the absence of a better term, the style is used as a catch-all word for any blend of geometric forms and vintage air. While the verbiage has no doubt worn away its welcome for many, it still maintains a larger-than-life presence in the worlds of art, design, and architecture; in fact, it’s difficult to walk the streets of New York City without seeing its influence on the surrounding skyscrapers. In watch design, the term – as buzzy as it may be – lends itself to the bold usage of atypical dial layouts with chunky numerals and faded hues. When used correctly, it can bring a dash of artistic and aesthetic merit to the wrist, but when used incorrectly, its significance melts away. Here, we’ve collected a number of recent watch releases that approach the usage of Art Deco styling with a great deal of respect and end up creating some very attractive timepieces.

Tissot

The Tissot Heritage Petite Seconde made its debut at Baselworld 2018 and was the hit of the show for the accessibly priced Swatch Group brand. The brushed finish on the dial, the combination of the large, printed Arabic numerals (just look at 9 o’clock!) and vintage Tissot logo, and the sharp, faceted lugs that contoured nicely on the wrist, all directly appealed to the enthusiast mindset. The price at $995, falling right in line with the value that Tissot is known for, only served to sweeten the deal. The design references the brand’s historic production of watches that featured special antimagnetic properties during the 1930s and ’40s. Tissot was one of the first brands to bring wristwatches featuring anti-magnetism to market, and the watches were generally known for their clean dial configuration, steel cases, thin hands, quality movement, and price accessibility. Inside the watch is a manually winding ETA 6498-1.

Panerai

As avid Paneristi are aware, today’s powerhouse Panerai watch brand had its humble beginnings in a retail watch store in Florence, founded by the Panerai family in 1860. As inspiration for the latest version of its Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio – 47mm, the company reached back to that historical early era, in which the family-owned Orologerie Suizzera (precursor to the modern Officine Panerai) sold not only wristwatches and pocket watches but also table clocks and pendulum clocks. It is a particular example of this last item that provided the template for the Art Deco dials of the two watches released last fall. The dial of a pendulum clock displayed on the first floor of Panerai’s Florentine shop on the Piazza San Giovanni is re-created in two distinct dial versions, both in 47-mm cases made of polished stainless steel – ivory (Ref. PAM00791) and black (PAM00790). Both retro-look dials are notable for their large, Art Deco hour numerals; peripheral railway minute track and additional interior ring; and lacquered, spear-shaped hour and minute hands, a style used for the first time on a Panerai wristwatch. Price for both models: $9,200.

Jaeger-LeCoultre

The Reverso is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s most recognized and historically significant watch. Its Art Deco case style is mirrored in one of the greatest achievements of that period’s architecture as well: William Van Alen’s Chrysler Building in Manhattan. The timepiece and skyscraper share the same geometric forms and modernist ideals that the Art Deco movement is known for. For example, take a look at the horizontal protruding lines of the Reverso’s case and compare them with the ornate and multi-part dome and spire of the Chrysler Building. This year, Jaeger-LeCoultre has released a new Reverso Tribute Small Seconds that is a direct reference to the first Reverso watches that appeared in 1931 on the wrists of polo players. The model comes in stainless steel and features an attractive burgundy-red dial that comes with a matching leather strap from Casa Fagliano. Price: $7,900.

Bulova

At Baselworld 2019, Bulova made the surprise move of launching an entirely new collection filled to the brim with limited-edition models that echo the brand’s New York City heritage. The new Joseph Bulova Collection contains 16 different timepieces in a variety of case styles like tank, tonneau, and round that are borrowed from some of the brand’s most memorable introductions from the 1920s to the 1940s such as the Commodore, Banker and Breton. Now owned by Japan’s Citizen Group, it would be easy to expect the presence of one of the conglomerate’s automatic Miyota calibers inside these cases; instead, Bulova has opted to go the Swiss route by using a Sellita SW200 movement that is visible through an exhibition caseback. Each of the 16 new watches is limited to 350 total pieces with prices ranging from $995 to $1,495.

Cartier

Cartier Prive Tonneau – Platinum

While many of Cartier’s iconic watch designs like the Tank and the Santos are informed by Art Deco design and worthy of a mention on this list, it has recently revived another early 20th-century shaped model that went on to become hugely influential, its 1906 Tonneau, with the new Privé line. The Cartier Privé collection kicks off with two two- handed versions in rose gold and platinum in addition to a skeletonized dual-time model. Hearkening back to the original 1906 watch – which was cased in platinum rather than more common gold and featured wrist-hugging curves and vis armurier (or “gunsmith”-style) tube screws to fasten the lugs – the Privé case is double bracketed, with an oblong, curved shape engineered to follow the contours of the wrist. The bezel of the two-hand Tonneau model is formed from a single block of either rose gold or platinum and boasts, according to Cartier, “no overhangs or breaks in the plane” of its surface. The winding crown is topped o with a cabochon in classic Cartier style. The dial – champagne-colored on the rose-gold watch, silvered on the platinum – features polished, rhodium-plated applied Roman numerals and a vintage-style railtrack minutes scale. Both versions of the Tonneau have alligator leather straps, gray with the platinum, brown with the gold, and are outfitted with Cartier’s new Caliber 1917, a manual-winder with a 38-hour power reserve. The platinum watch is limited to 100 pieces and is priced at $26,200. The rose-gold model is priced at $22,400.

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin released a mid-size version of its fan-favorite Historiques 1921 American collection in 2017. First added to the contemporary lineup in 2008, the Historiques 1921 American has become one of the brand’s most popular designs across social media and online forums. The original watch that the Historiques 1921 American is based on was released in 1921 and produced in limited quantities for American motorists, with its dial rotated 45 degrees for easier viewing while driving. Only 12 pieces of the vintage watch were produced from 1921 to 1931. The newest version of the watch (Ref. 1100S/000R-B430) in 36.5 mm, like the 40-mm version before it, is a faithful homage to the original that keeps much of the vintage elements intact while further developing the modern luxury elements associated with Vacheron Constantin today. With its straight, wire-inspired lugs and an upper corner crown adding to the case, the watch hosts a distinguished border on its rose-gold, cushion-shaped case. Its grained metal dial is angled to the right for a left-handed wearer, using an outer black railroad minutes track, printed “Breguet” Arabic numerals and subtle corporate script with an applied gold VC logo toward the 12 o’clock position. At the 3 o’clock mark is the running seconds subdial, conspicuously non-angled like the rest of the face, while two black pomme-style hands sweep over the whole dial. Inside is the Geneva Seal-certified, manufacture Caliber 4400 AS manually wound movement with a 65-hour power reserve. Price: $28,600.

Last week, Bulova, the distinctly American watch brand founded in 1875, released three new models inspired by the historical watches it produced for the U.S. military in the early-to mid-20th Century. With the new Hack and A-15 Pilot watches, Bulova kickstarts its Military Collection, thus expanding its range of heritage offerings.

The two Hack models take their stylistic cues from Bulova’s vintage 3818-A military model, produced in the 1950 and ‘60s, and are named for those watches’ well-known hacking seconds mechanisms. The third new timepiece, the A-15 Pilot Watch, is another vintage-influenced model which finds its inspiration in an interesting military-issued A-15 “Elapsed Time Watch” from 1944, also known for its various internal rotating bezels and multiple crowns.

The Hack watches are time-only field watch-inspired models available in either a black or white colorway; the black model is accented with red and luminescent material, while the white version uses luminescent and black accents. Both watches use a 38-mm steel case with a prominent, boxy crown. On the dial of the watch you can find a common ‘60s-style field watch design, with a simple outer minute ring, large Arabic numerals from 1 to 12 marking each hour, and inside this outer scale, smaller numerals from 13 to 24 to assist in telling time more efficiently throughout the day using military time. Sweeping over the dial are a vintage sword and arrow-style combination of hands for the hour and minute, with a simple pointer used for the seconds hand.

The Hack watches are powered by the Miyota Caliber 82S0, which carries a 42-hour power reserve and is protected by a solid caseback.

Taking a look at the A-15 Pilot Watch, we find a larger, 42-mm steel case and  a dial with a distinct vintage look. On the watch’s right side you find some of the most dominant features, with the top and bottom crowns operating the two inner rotating bezels, while the center crown helps adjust the main timekeeping mechanism inside. The dial’s minute counter is on the outermost rotating bezel, which is something of a super-compressor-inspired design to help in keeping track of minutes passed from a specific moment. Within this bezel is a 12-hour bezel, which with some skill and practice can help the wearer both to track elapsed times from a certain moment, but also to read the time in a different time zone if need be. On the flat center of the dial we find white and yellow accents, with an outer railroad track minute ring, large Arabic numerals from 1 to 12, and smaller numerals for 13 to 24 similar to those on the Hack; the A-15 also uses the same vintage-style hand configuration. The A-15 Pilot Watch is powered by the Miyota Caliber 82S6, though details on this movement are scant. Like the Hack — and true to its vintage predecessor — the A-15 also uses a solid caseback.

The Hack watches will begin retailing at $395, and the A-15 Pilot Watch will be sold at $695; each watch will be available at Bulova retailers worldwide later this year.

Bulova’s recently released Chronograph A “Surfboard” is a modern re-issue that takes its inspiration from a vintage watch from the 1970s (pictured below, courtesy of Watchteez) with the same nickname. This latest release includes one new, limited-edition mechanical model and three similar quartz editions, each featuring the historical model’s recognizable, horizontally oriented “surfboard” motif that stylistically brings together the watch’s two subdials and bestows it its nickname.

The mechanical model features a 38-mm steel case, with a red-and-blue bezel, and an off-white-and-blue dial with orange accents; the quartz editions use a 40.5-mm steel case and offer a red-and-blue bezel with white-and-blue dial; a red-and-black bezel with off-white-and-black dial; or an orange-and-blue bezel with off-white-and-blue dial. Each of the models includes pump-style chronograph pushers, a signed crown, and a vintage-style rotating bezel with a contrasting color on one of its quarters and topped with a small circle at the 60-minute position.

On the dial of the Chronograph A, you’ll find an outer tachymetric scale, with applied steel square and rectangular hour markers at each position, except the 3 and 6 o’clock markers, which are covered by the watch’s two subdials. The watch with the mechanical movement features running seconds on its left and a 30-minute counter on its right, while the quartz editions are slightly different, hosting a 60-minute counter instead at the 3 o’clock subdial. Each of the subdials on both the quartz and mechanical models feature line-tipped rectangular hands. Both subdials are connected by the watch’s central “surfboard” oval, in a contrasting color to the rest of the dial. The color-tipped rectangular hands pass over the bicolor dial, determining hours and minutes, while a triangular hand matching the colors of the tips of the hour and minute hands stands ready at the 12 o’clock mark to count off the chronograph seconds.

Inside the limited-edition model is the mechanical Sellita Caliber SW510 BH b, an automatic movement based on the SW500-1 and capable of a 48-hour power reserve. The non-limited models use the Miyota Caliber 6S21-00A, a quartz mechanism produced by Bulova’s sister brand, also owned by Citizen Watch Co. of Japan.

The new mechanical Chronograph A “Surfboard” model will be limited to 250 pieces and will retail for $2,950 on a vintage-style steel bracelet; the quartz editions will be available as part of Bulova’s permanent collection, and will be priced starting at $695 on perforated silicone straps with deployant closures. Both the quartz and mechanical models will be available at Bulova retailers later this year, though all are also available directly through the brand’s website, here.

Aesthetically, there doesn’t seem to be much difference between the limited-edition model and the three quartz editions, other than a few millimeters in size, a vintage-style metal bracelet rather than a rubber strap, and different color choices. Whether the decision to equip the limited edition with a Sellita movement and a bracelet warrants an additional $2,300 on its price tag might provoke debate, but die-hard fans of the original may be happy to pay the premium to get the more authentic re-creation of the 1970s model, especially since it’s available in limited numbers.

The Chronograph A “Surfboard” debuts as the latest in Bulova’s recently expanded roster of archival watches, which includes the Military Collection pieces launched just last month. It also comes on the heels of other vintage-inspired Bulova models that have garnered significant attention, including the Oceanographer Devil Diver, Computron LED, Chronograph C “Stars & Stripes,” and, perhaps most notably, the Moon Watch. The new Chronograph A displays the brand’s continued willingness to draw upon its extensive history of watchmaking to offer interesting “neo-vintage” models. With that trend continuing throughout the watch world, it wouldn’t be surprising to see Bulova expand the Chronograph A as a collection in the months and years to come.

(Warning: Spoilers ahead.)

Watches in movies have fascinated watch fans since collecting timepieces became (at least) as interesting as getting an autograph from your favorite actor. From Steve McQueen’s Monaco in Le Mans (1971), Ripley’s (Sigourney Weaver) Seiko Giugario in Aliens (1986), Christian Bale’s Datejust in American Psycho (2000), Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT and Martin Sheen’s Sheen’s Seiko 6105 “Captain Willard” in Apocalypse Now (1979), to Casio’s CA53W on the wrist of Marty McFly (Michael J. Fox) in Back to the Future (1985), James Bond’s (Sean Connery) Submariner 6538 in Dr. No (1962), and many more, these pieces quite often became as famous (among collectors) as the movies they were in. In some cases, like the Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Ultra Thin Perpetual in Doctor Strange (2016), Kate Becket’s (Stana Katic) Omega Speedmaster in the television series “Castle” (2009-2016), or the clock without hands in Ingmar Bergman’s Wild Strawberries (1957), to name just a few, these pieces have even played a much more important role than simply being a prop. Time to look at some noteworthy appearances on the screen:

Pulp Fiction (1994):

“This watch was your birthright, […] so he hid it, in the one place he knew he could hide something.”

Tarantino’s masterpiece not only earned John Travolta, Samuel L. Jackson, and Uma Thurman Academy Award nominations, it also featured a family heirloom with perhaps one of the most unusual stories, prizefighter Butch Coolidge’s (Bruce Willis) great grandfather’s gold watch (a Lancet trench watch). As we learn in Captain Koons’ (Christopher Walken) monologue, Orion Coolidge had initially bought the Lancet in a General Store in Knoxville at the turn of the century. When he was enlisted to serve in World War I, Orion gave the watch to his son Dane, who would later wear it as a soldier during World War II. At the Battle of Wake Island (December 8 – 23, 1941), Dane realized he might not make it home and gave it to an Air Force gunner named Winocki and asked to give it to his wife and his son (Butch’s father). He in turn was shot down over Hanoi during the Vietnam war and put in a prison camp, still wearing the gold watch. The only way he thought he could save it was to hide it from the Viet Cong in the last place you would want to wear a watch. Five years later, on his deathbed, he handed the watch over to his friend Koons (Christopher Walken) who also had to hide the watch in the same way to keep it safe until the day he could finally give it to Butch.

Interstellar (2014):

‘Look at this! It was him! All this time!’

Christopher Nolan’s epic science fiction film wouldn’t be the same without Joseph Cooper’s (Matthew McConaughey) Hamilton Khaki Field wristwatch, perhaps the best product placement in the history of watch marketing: Shortly before he set off to leave earth (and our galaxy) as the pilot of the spaceship Endurance, Cooper gave the watch as a keepsake to his 10-year-old daughter “Murph” to compare their relative times for when he’d return. He later uses the watch from inside a massive tesseract to communicate with her across different time periods by manipulating the second hand of the wristwatch, using Morse code to transmit the quantum data collected from inside the event horizon, thus enabling humanity’s exodus and survival.

The watch became known by fans of the film as the “Murph” watch and was eventually released by Hamilton in 2019.

Apollo 13 (1995):

“Houston, we have a problem.“

Ron Howard’s movie about the ill-fated Apollo 13 lunar mission is only one of the many must-see space movies with the Omega Speedmaster Professional in it. But since the watch was used by John Leonard “Jack“ Swigert, Jr. (played by Kevin Bacon in the movie) to time a 14-second maneuver that proved critical in returning the crew back to earth, this undoubtedly was one of the Speedmaster’s most important roles.

Jaws (1975):

“You’re gonna need a bigger boat!“

In Steven Spielberg’s classic shark movie, Richard Dreyfuss, playing Matt Hooper, wore a fairly regular dive watch that evolved into a frustrating mystery for the world’s watch nerds for decades. Until 2010, when Gary and Christian Stock were able to reveal that it was an Alsta Nautoscaph. The duo reached out to Dick Warlock, the stuntman who went into the cage with the shark in the water, and stunt coordinator Ted Grossman.

James Bond: Goldeneye (1995):

“Now, 007, do please try to return some of this equipment in pristine order.“

The seventeenth movie in the James Bond series, and the first to star Pierce Brosnan as the fictional MI6 officer James Bond, took product placement in the watch industry to a new level: In a time where people were still crazy about Swatch watches, Omega had pulled a badass marketing stunt and equipped Bond (originally a Rolex guy) with the Seamaster Professional 300 (loaded with gadgets like a laser and a remote detonator). The watch is not only a major plot device several times in the film; it created a tenfold increase in pieces sold for Omega, and helped introduce a new generation of buyers to the world of Swiss luxury watchmaking.

Daylight (1996):

“Don’t you have something better to do?“

With an IMDB rating of only 5.9 and a critics consensus on Rotten Tomato that the movie “feels designed to annoy the audience into submission,” Daylight was certainly not Silvester Stallone’s greatest role. Nevertheless, Kit Latura’s (Stallone) performance in a tunnel connecting Manhattan and New Jersey brought the needed exposure for the Italian watch brand Panerai and led to significantly more demand (as well as more appearances in other action movies).

Safety Last! (1923):

“You’ll do time for this!“

The American silent film starring Harold Lloyd (playing himself as a salesclerk at the De Vore Department Store) includes one of the most famous images from the silent film era: Lloyd clutching the hands of a large clock as he dangles from the outside of a skyscraper above moving traffic to attract people to his employer’s store. A number of different buildings from 1st Street to 9th Street in downtown Los Angeles were used, with sets built on their roofs to match the facade of the main building, the International Bank Building at Temple and Spring Streets.

Kingsman: The Secret Service (2014):

“So what does this do? Electrocute someone?“

Matthew Vaughn’s hilarious movie about a spy organization and its latest recruit Gary “Eggsy” Unwin (Taron Egerton) fighting a global threat from a twisted tech genius also brought three Bremont watches to the big screen. Even more impressive, Bremont Co-Founder Nick English himself managed to make a cameo appearance as a Kingsman.

Bulova: The world’s first television commercial (1941)

“America runs on Bulova time.“

While obviously not a movie, the world’s first TV commercial still deserves to be on this list: It aired on July 1, 1941, on NBC’s WNBT-TV before the beginning of a baseball game in New York between the Brooklyn Dodgers and Philadelphia Phillies. The ad was only 10 seconds long and cost the company $9 ($4 for airtime and $5 for “station charges”). Almost as impressive: In 1926, Bulova had broadcasted the first national radio commercial.

American Hustle (2013):

“Don’t make such a big deal! Just get another one.“

American Hustle tells the story of con man Irving Rosenfeld (Christian Bale), who along with his British partner Sydney Prosser (Amy Adams) is working for FBI agent Richie DiMaso (Bradley Cooper) in 1978. Speaking of a con: Louis C.K.’s portrayal as FBI supervisor Stoddard Thorsen introduced viewers to a Rolex GMT-Master II in gold, more than two decades before this particular version of the watch was actually released by the Geneva-based brand.

Just in time for Father’s Day, Bulova pays homage to iconic singer Frank Sinatra with 10 new, vintage-inspired watches, dispersed among four distinct design iterations, each named after a famous song by the artist. The collection includes the cushion-shaped “Fly Me to the Moon,” the rectangular “My Way,” the tonneau-style “Young at Heart,” and lastly the rounded “The Best is Yet to Come” model, also distinguished by its flared lugs. Each of the models includes an image of Sinatra’s hat and/or signature on the dial, an explicit form of third-party branding uncommon in full collections.

According to Bulova, the brand’s connection to Sinatra goes all the way back to the 1950s and The Frank Sinatra Show television series, for which Bulova was a sponsor. Sinatra was also known to have owned and worn Bulova watches throughout his life. As such, the brand, in its continued commitment to produce watches influenced by famous moments and persons in music, has released the 1950s- and ‘60s-inspired Sinatra collection to honor Hoboken, New Jersey’s “most famous son.”

“Fly Me to the Moon”

The first design in the line-up is “Fly Me to the Moon,” which includes three pieces, each featuring a 39-mm cushion-type, multi-part case construction. Two of these models use simple steel cases with the choice of either a black or silver white dial, while the third uses a gold-toned steel case with a white dial. Each of the dials has a fluted design, featuring alternating applied Arabic and pyramid-style hour markers, and is conspicuously clean due to its lack of a minute ring. Passing over the dial, including the 3 o’clock date window and aforementioned 6 o’clock Sinatra signature, are pike-style hour and minute hands accompanied by a simple pointer for the running seconds.

The “Fly Me to the Moon” editions each feature a Miyota Caliber 8215 movement, visible through an exhibition caseback; the automatic mechanism is capable of a 42-hour power reserve.

“My Way”

The “My Way” sub-family comprises two Art Deco-influenced rectangular watches, described by the brand as “tank-style.” These include a steel model and a gold-tone version, with the steel featuring a black dial with gold-colored and white accents and the gold-tone version opting for a white dial with gold and black accents. On the dial, we see a rectangular, railroad-style minute track, with applied diagonal markers for most hours except the 3, 6, and 12 o’clock, which use Arabic numerals. At the bottom of the dial is a rectangular framed seconds subdial, while toward the top is the Sinatra signature and Bulova logo; shortened hands similar to those seen on the “Fly Me to the Moon” pass over the face.

The “My Way” watches use the Miyota Caliber 1L45 Quartz, which is protected behind a Sinatra-branded, solid steel caseback.

“Young at Heart”

The third of the new releases, called “Young at Heart,” includes two gold-tone models with either a sunray silver or brown dial. The tonneau-shaped case has faceted edges and a small fluted crown on its side. On the dial we see a simple, clean configuration, with applied Arabic numerals for each hour except the 12 o’clock, which is occupied by an image of Sinatra’s iconic fedora. Like the “Fly Me to the Moon,” this model features a 3 o’clock date window, as well as the same pike-style hour and minute hands.

The “Young at Heart” models, like the “Fly Me to the Moon,” editions, are powered by the Miyota 8215.

“The Best is Yet to Come”

The final watch in the new Sinatra collection is the appropriately named “The Best is Yet to Come.” This design includes three 40-mm round watches, two with steel cases and either double-brushed “linen” black or grey dials, and one gold-tone model with a warmer, almost cream-colored face. These models are foremost distinguished by their unusual lug shape, which contrasts with the subtle crown and the smooth curve of the case. On the dial, we find an outer dotted minute ring, with applied tick markers for the hours; a 3 o’clock date window, and the same faceted hands we saw on the previous models. At the bottom of the dial is Sinatra’s signature, here paired with the crooner’s iconic hat, while a Bulova logo balances it at the top of the dial.

“The Best is Yet to Come” watch is powered by the manually-wound Sellita SW215. When fully-wound, the mechanism features a 42-hour reserve.

The new Sinatra collection ranges in price from $495 to $1,350, depending on the specific model and case material, with availability expected to be staggered through the second half of 2020.

To learn more, and to inquire for purchase, you can visit Bulova’s website, here.

Accutron, the world’s first fully electronic watch, marks its 60th anniversary in 2020. Reconstituted as an independent brand separate from Bulova, its original parent company, it is ushering in the new era with 21st century technology and a healthy dose of mid-20th-century nostalgia, starting with the retro-inspired Spaceview 2020.

Introduced in 1960, the original Bulova Accutron incorporated a revolutionary new technology that utilized a tuning fork, powered by a one-transistor electronic oscillator, to drive the timekeeping functions rather than a traditional balance wheel. Its name stood for “Accuracy through Electronic.” The brainchild of Bulova engineer Max Hetzel, this technology ensured an oscillation rate of 360 hertz — nearly 150 times faster than that of a mechanical, balance-wheel-driven timepiece — and guaranteed an accuracy to just one minute per month. The now-legendary first Accutron model, called the Spaceview 214 (the numerical designation derived from the movement, Caliber 214), was like no other watch previously seen, or heard, on the market — distinguished audibly by the telltale humming generated by the tuning fork rather than the traditional ticking of its mechanical brethren. Its high-tech movement, with its circuit-board-green elements in full view behind an open dial, deviated from traditional wristwatch design with its lack of setting stem and crown on the side of the watch; these elements were instead placed on the back of the case.

All in all, the Accutron proved to be an ideal wristwatch for the Space Race heyday of the 1960s, and achieved a number of milestones. A partnership between Bulova and NASA led to Accutron dashboard clocks being installed on the spacecraft of all the Apollo missions; one remains on the moon to this day, inside the lunar vehicle left behind in the Sea of Tranquility after the historic moon landing in 1969. President Lyndon B. Johnson declared Accutron wristwatches the official “Gift of State,” in 1964 and Accutron clocks were installed on Air Force One, the presidential jet, in 1967.

The birth of Accutron centered around an unprecedented technological breakthrough in watchmaking, and the rebirth of Accutron as an independent brand, separate from Bulova, within the Citizen Group could be built upon nothing less. The advancement in this case was the new, proprietary Accutron movement, which was powered by electrostatic energy generated from the motion of the wearer’s wrist. The movement’s fast-rotating twin turbines are affixed to two electrodes that send energy to an accumulator powering two tiny motors — one an electrostatic motor driving the smooth motion of the seconds hand (a world first), the other a step motor for the hour and minute hands — both synchronized through integrated circuits for an accuracy of +/- 5 seconds per month. The development of the movement, says Citizen Group America president Jeffrey Cohen, took over a decade, as part of a long-range plan for Accutron that began almost immediately after the Citizen Group took over Bulova in 2008. “Technology is always on the mind of watch enthusiasts,” he acknowledges, “whether it’s in movement advancements, or some other area. We wanted to honor the original brand by going back to its roots while still introducing an advancement in timekeeping technology that’s never been seen before.”

The electrostatic movement makes its debut in the retro-inspired model that kicks off the new era of Accutron, appropriately called the Spaceview 2020. The watch, in a 43.5-mm polished steel case, replicates the then-radical look of the original Spaceview, with the same green accents highlighting its exposed dial-side movement. The Spaceview 2020 is mounted on a black leather strap and retails for $3,450. Alongside the Spaceview 2020 model, and taking their visual cues from its neo-vintage design, are a quartet of models called Accutron DNA. Leaning heavily on the original’s sci-fi aesthetic, their skeletonized open-dial faces replace the familiar green hues of the original 214 model with an array of contemporary colors, including blues, grays, and gold tones. These models have sportier straps made of rubber, with pusher-operated deployant clasps, and slightly larger case dimensions, at 45.1 mm. The Accutron DNA models are priced at $3,300.

For a full report on the new Accutron collection, pick up the September-October issue of WatchTime, on sale soon in the WatchTime Shop.

Bulova has added to its historically inspired collections the new Special VWI Edition Hack Watch, which is being launched in partnership with the Veterans Watchmaker Initiative (VWI). A modern re-edition of the 1960s MIL-W-3818A (pictured below, via MyBulova.com) — the last official military-issued watch produced by Bulova— it joins the family of Hack watches that Bulova unveiled at the start of this year.

The release of the special-edition watch coincides with the news that the VWI is now Bulova’s newest authorized service center. In order to foster the VWI’s mission, and to assist it with better handling and servicing of the influx of Bulova watches it will see, the brand is also donating “tools, machinery, spare parts, watches, and more” to assist the U.S. veterans-focused nonprofit.

Like its predecessors, the Special VWI Edition Hack Watch features a straightforward, mid-century-inspired field watch design, with some interesting commemorative elements. The brushed steel case is 38 mm in diameter and 13.55 mm thick and has a 30-meter water resistance — all of which stick relatively close to the vintage elements of the 3818A. The lugs are slightly angled on their tips, while the large, right-side crown sits close to the case. As the name of the watch indicates, pulling out its crown to adjust the time activates a “hacking” mechanism, stopping the motion of the seconds hand.

Underneath the double-domed mineral crystal of the watch, we find the matte-black, mil-spec dial accented with green lume and white accents. On the outer edge is a simple minute ring accentuated at each hour marker with a small printed square and a large Arabic numeral, from 1 to 12. Smaller Arabic numerals within this outer track, marked 13 to 24, are used to determine military time at a glance, a task made necessary during the vintage watch’s period and place of origin. Lume-filled hour and minute hands pass over the dial, along with a thin pointer for the seconds.

Inside this vintage re-edition is the Japanese Miyota caliber 8S20-43A. The automatic movement stores a 42-hour power reserve, is accurate to -20 / +40 seconds per day, and has a frequency of 21,600 vph. Protecting the caliber is a solid caseback, printed with an image closely associated with the VWI, showing a man working on an oversized watch to a group of interested veterans.

The Special VWI Edition Hack Watch is priced at $395, available now directly through Bulova, with 10% of profits being donated directly to the VWI.

To learn more about the Veterans Watchmaking Initiative (VWI), you can visit the school’s website, here.